Halbe,
I think the brass plug on the diff carrier is too high up for an oil level indicator. The oil level should be just below the top of the filler on the back of the axle. It is more likely that the plug gives access to see that the crown wheel and pinion are meshing correctly.
Alister has hydraulic brakes which have different back plates to the Minors with cable brakes.
What paint are you using for the chassis parts. You are getting a jolly good finish.
VG 2007
Moderators: Ian Grace, Will Grace
Re: VG2007
Yes , the plug is about halfway up the axle , same level as the pinion,so you are probably right!
When everything is clean I'll take another look to see if I can see the pinion through the hole.
On all the chassis bits , I'm using a special metal paint made by Flexa, this gives a nice finish and is quite durable.
Regards,
Halbe
When everything is clean I'll take another look to see if I can see the pinion through the hole.
On all the chassis bits , I'm using a special metal paint made by Flexa, this gives a nice finish and is quite durable.
Regards,
Halbe
Re: VG2007
It was me asking about the brass nut on some thread or other. The question was raised when I noticed the diff housings on SL and NG were diff(erent).
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Highlander
- Posts: 489
- Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:52 am
Re: VG2007
Halbe, This Flexi paint you are using - is is brush or spray?I am a brush painter and have been for 50 years however I find brushing paint today dries too quickly and does not brush out. Anyone found anything? In 1957 I used John Keeps Coach Enamel and could paint an austin 7 from one side to the other and over the scuttle and still have time to paint out any blemish. This does not happen today. Just a thought. Highlander.
Re: VG2007
The Paint is called Metalpaint by Flexa (Gloss black).
It's hand (brush) painted but you need to mix it with turpentine (10%) and paint all the surfaces twice.
I find modern paints to thick and prefer to put on two thinner coats which also gives a smoother and better result.
I use a rather big round brush.
Simon,
Looking into the plug hole I can only see the back of the crownwheel but not the pinion
Still looking for the answer to that question
Regards,
Halbe
It's hand (brush) painted but you need to mix it with turpentine (10%) and paint all the surfaces twice.
I find modern paints to thick and prefer to put on two thinner coats which also gives a smoother and better result.
I use a rather big round brush.
Simon,
Looking into the plug hole I can only see the back of the crownwheel but not the pinion
Still looking for the answer to that question
Regards,
Halbe
Re: VG2007
Halbe,
Can you see if the outside face of the crown wheel and the face of the pinion, the face facing the front of the car, line up because I am led to believe that they should. It would be possible to set the gears up with the correct backlash with the gears in the wrong position relative to each other. I cannot look at any of mine as they do not have the brass plug.
If you have got a spare minute could you please have a look at the needle in your carburetter and note the letters / numbers stamped on the end. Thanks.
Can you see if the outside face of the crown wheel and the face of the pinion, the face facing the front of the car, line up because I am led to believe that they should. It would be possible to set the gears up with the correct backlash with the gears in the wrong position relative to each other. I cannot look at any of mine as they do not have the brass plug.
If you have got a spare minute could you please have a look at the needle in your carburetter and note the letters / numbers stamped on the end. Thanks.
Re: VG2007
Simon, M9 needle
Also check out "carb needles"in the technical thread for a picture
Halbe
Also check out "carb needles"in the technical thread for a picture
Halbe
Re: VG2007
progress report,
Busy working on the back axle,
The diff. seems to be ok with only a new pinion bearing needed.
The wheel bearings will need replacing but that is no problem , the only thing I needed was one backplate .
Luckily Jeremy was able and willing to help me out there. thanks again
This morning I took the axle casing to a company to get it cleaned on the inside.
On the cover I made a breather , most of the problems with oil getting on the brakes come from pressure building up in the diff. and only one way of getting out
Since the Aston has a nice breathing system I decided to make something for VG's back axle in the way MG used to before the war.
Regards,
Halbe
Busy working on the back axle,
The diff. seems to be ok with only a new pinion bearing needed.
The wheel bearings will need replacing but that is no problem , the only thing I needed was one backplate .
Luckily Jeremy was able and willing to help me out there. thanks again
This morning I took the axle casing to a company to get it cleaned on the inside.
On the cover I made a breather , most of the problems with oil getting on the brakes come from pressure building up in the diff. and only one way of getting out
Since the Aston has a nice breathing system I decided to make something for VG's back axle in the way MG used to before the war.
Regards,
Halbe
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Highlander
- Posts: 489
- Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:52 am
Re: VG2007
Halbe, Again well done!! On another blogg I mentioned an old remidy for preventing oil from the back axle reaching the brakes. Drill three holes on the underside of the axle casing between the diff and the hubs. Any oil travelling from the diff towards the brakes should leak out through the holes. As you have your axle stripped perhaps you could look to see if this dodge is possible on a Minor. Keep up the good work. Highlander.
Re: VG2007
Looks very vintage!
Re the holes, I have heard that a good solution is to fit TWO cork (or modern equivalent) seals on each side of the axle casing with a small space between them, and drill a hole between the two.
Re the holes, I have heard that a good solution is to fit TWO cork (or modern equivalent) seals on each side of the axle casing with a small space between them, and drill a hole between the two.
Re: VG2007
It is not necessary to drill any holes in the axle casing if you replace the scroll cork seals with modern lip seals, just one per side. See forum about Toby's oily brake shoes. I have used them on the Jensen and there is no trace of oil leaking after 500 + miles of last summer's rally. I obtained mine from Marksman in Aldershot.
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Highlander
- Posts: 489
- Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:52 am
Re: VG2007
Ok, ;point taken. Belt and braces? Highlander.
Re: VG2007
progress report,
Just finished painting the rear axle.
Now's the time to get new bearings and seals.
I'm also thinking about a pre war MG mod.
I was told that they used to strengthen the casing by changing the studs for the diff. unit and rear cover with a long nut and bolt, and a tubular distance piece inside the unit.
If you would tighten those up it would really strengthen the back axle .
Regards,
Halbe
Just finished painting the rear axle.
Now's the time to get new bearings and seals.
I'm also thinking about a pre war MG mod.
I was told that they used to strengthen the casing by changing the studs for the diff. unit and rear cover with a long nut and bolt, and a tubular distance piece inside the unit.
If you would tighten those up it would really strengthen the back axle
. Regards,
Halbe
Re: VG2007
Nice!
I have heard about that mod., but never seen it on any axle I have dismantled. It would also free up a nice handful of oily, rust-free BSF bolts for use elsewhere!
By the way, Halbe, thanks for encouraging our MMM friends to follow the VMR's example and enable images to be posted on their forum! I just spent a happy lunch break trawling through some great pics.
I have heard about that mod., but never seen it on any axle I have dismantled. It would also free up a nice handful of oily, rust-free BSF bolts for use elsewhere!
By the way, Halbe, thanks for encouraging our MMM friends to follow the VMR's example and enable images to be posted on their forum! I just spent a happy lunch break trawling through some great pics.
Re: VG2007
It appears that MG only made that axle mod on certain racing cars, which were far more powerful than anything we've got. In any case the real weak point is the alloy diff casing where the crownwheel is bolted on. Even so, I have only had one of these break and I don't think it was anything to do with my twenty something bhp and more likely metal fatigue, so not something the average Minor or M owner need worry about.
Looking at your nicely corded springs reminded me that there has been some talk on the MMM website on that subject, and it seems that before cording them they should be wrapped in something otherwise the cording traps in grit, which presumably mixes with the grease to make a kind of grinding paste! I'm sure you won't want to take it off ( if you haven't wrapped them ) but it might be worth wrapping over the top. There is a special tape you can get to do it with.( Devcon?) When I did mine I didn't know there was a tape available so I greased them and wrapped them in black duct tape which has survived very well. I didn't cord them because it's my understanding that it's done to make them stiffer and I felt my car was uncomfortable enough as it is!
Ian
Looking at your nicely corded springs reminded me that there has been some talk on the MMM website on that subject, and it seems that before cording them they should be wrapped in something otherwise the cording traps in grit, which presumably mixes with the grease to make a kind of grinding paste! I'm sure you won't want to take it off ( if you haven't wrapped them ) but it might be worth wrapping over the top. There is a special tape you can get to do it with.( Devcon?) When I did mine I didn't know there was a tape available so I greased them and wrapped them in black duct tape which has survived very well. I didn't cord them because it's my understanding that it's done to make them stiffer and I felt my car was uncomfortable enough as it is!
Ian