A little assistance please.... on MT's old engine, dad had rigged up an old ford dynamo on the side of the block, which proved to be very effecient for many years..... however, with the rebuilt engine comes a rebuilt dynamo.....
the 'Ford' dynamo only had one wire to it, the 'Minor' one has two, any idea which terminal the '1' wire should go to ion the minor one, the other wire is taped up with the single one, so i do have two wires, just not sure which terminal to connect them to, i don;t wanna do any harm to anything....!!
Thanks.
dynamo wiring.....
Moderators: Ian Grace, Will Grace
Re: dynamo wiring.....
Ronald
The large terminal on the dynamo goes to D+ on the cut out and instrument panel and should be the wire that was connected to the Ford dynamo. The small terminal on the dynamo goes to F1 on the instrument panel for the summer/winter charge. On winter charge it connects the two terminals on the dynamo together, shorting out the field resistance inside the dynamo thereby increasing the dynamo output. Check with your engine builder that the dynamo has been set (the third brush) to give the correct output.
Simon
The large terminal on the dynamo goes to D+ on the cut out and instrument panel and should be the wire that was connected to the Ford dynamo. The small terminal on the dynamo goes to F1 on the instrument panel for the summer/winter charge. On winter charge it connects the two terminals on the dynamo together, shorting out the field resistance inside the dynamo thereby increasing the dynamo output. Check with your engine builder that the dynamo has been set (the third brush) to give the correct output.
Simon
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Ken Martin
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:05 am
Re: dynamo wiring.....
Hi Ronald
This is a big subject that is tricky to deal with via the Forum. Note the recent articles in the Mag.
You need the wiring diagram, which is in the owners handbook and I think is available in the VMR web site Member's area. You also need to check whether your Dad made other changes such that the car now has a voltage regulator. The original wiring diagarm is for the Lucas Type CF constant voltage cut-out and summer/winter charge switching.
The large dynamo terminal (+) goes to the cut out 'D' terminal via the D terminal behind the ign. switch and the wire from the small terminal goes to the F1 (field) terminal behind and above the summer/winter charge/ignition switch. The two terminals are bridged in the wiring circuit by the half-charge (summer/winter) resistor. This was originally wired internally (inside the dynamo) but over the years changes may have been made such that an external resistor may be fitted or needed. If you do not get summer/winter charge on the switch then changes may have been made. The resistor characteristics should be in the order of 1 ohm and a power capacity of about 30 Watts. I have fitted modern ceramic types internally (try Maplin for these) but these can be hung on the outside or fitted anywhere that is convenient. Later cars had them built into the cut-out.
The negative dynamo to battery connection is via the chassis (no wires).
You may have to polarise the dynamo by flashing a lead from the + battery terminal to the large dynamo terminal. for a second or two.
A point to look for when you have the instrument panel out is for dirty contacts especially on the bridging strip of brass at the back of the ign. swithch that moves to cause the summer/winter charge switching. When this brass strip is in circuit the half-charge-resistor is bypassed allowing the full (winter) charge to flow.
You shouldn't disconnect the battery or the dynamo (unless the brushes are out) while the engine is running as this will probably cause damage to the dynamo wiring due to a large voltage surge.
I will call you.
Ken
This is a big subject that is tricky to deal with via the Forum. Note the recent articles in the Mag.
You need the wiring diagram, which is in the owners handbook and I think is available in the VMR web site Member's area. You also need to check whether your Dad made other changes such that the car now has a voltage regulator. The original wiring diagarm is for the Lucas Type CF constant voltage cut-out and summer/winter charge switching.
The large dynamo terminal (+) goes to the cut out 'D' terminal via the D terminal behind the ign. switch and the wire from the small terminal goes to the F1 (field) terminal behind and above the summer/winter charge/ignition switch. The two terminals are bridged in the wiring circuit by the half-charge (summer/winter) resistor. This was originally wired internally (inside the dynamo) but over the years changes may have been made such that an external resistor may be fitted or needed. If you do not get summer/winter charge on the switch then changes may have been made. The resistor characteristics should be in the order of 1 ohm and a power capacity of about 30 Watts. I have fitted modern ceramic types internally (try Maplin for these) but these can be hung on the outside or fitted anywhere that is convenient. Later cars had them built into the cut-out.
The negative dynamo to battery connection is via the chassis (no wires).
You may have to polarise the dynamo by flashing a lead from the + battery terminal to the large dynamo terminal. for a second or two.
A point to look for when you have the instrument panel out is for dirty contacts especially on the bridging strip of brass at the back of the ign. swithch that moves to cause the summer/winter charge switching. When this brass strip is in circuit the half-charge-resistor is bypassed allowing the full (winter) charge to flow.
You shouldn't disconnect the battery or the dynamo (unless the brushes are out) while the engine is running as this will probably cause damage to the dynamo wiring due to a large voltage surge.
I will call you.
Ken