Vintage Minor Register

Got the brake fixed yesterday - one-handed! The caliper needed changing as one pad was down to the metal, and the other was almost new. But the new caliper doesn't include the cast steel mount which is the part that jammed, so had to unjam that and fitted the new caliper anyway as I took the old one back to get the deposit on the core. The insane thing is that the new caliper cost $33, but the core refund on the old one was $45 - so I asked the chap for a dozen more.

Sorry for slightly hijhacking the thread, Mike.

Getting back on track - Mike, can you confirm that the original number IA 9142 has been reallocated and replaces USV 940? Just want to keep the Chassis Register accurate.

Ian,
Hope the hand is recovering, impressed with what you can achieve using only one! In answer to your question, yes Mike Thomas was able to recover the original registration as it had never been re-allocated. Thus it has its original Antrim issued registration.
Mike.

I thought that it was about time I posted some kind of update. The car had its hood, frame and bracketry removed in the early 70s when it was used in VSCC events. I thought that I should rectify this, never realising what a frustrating long procedure it would be. Anyway with a frame pattern lent by Tony Gamble, some bracket bending by Garry Waiting and some front support patterns from the VMR the frame is done, now to finish off the paper pattern and on with the stitching!
Regards to all, Mike.

Mike,

Looks spot on to me!

I still have the original sidescreens for LJ over here (actually, they are still with the upholsterer in Grand Rapids - he's been fin ishing them off for the last four years!), so if you need patterns for them, it could be arranged.

Ian,

Yes I would appreciate patterns for the sidescreens whenever possible. Something else to make!

Regards, Mike.

Here's a sidescreen teaser! LJ 4435 just before heading off to the upholsterers for new double duck.

Note that the top side rail must be perfectly parallel with the door tops if the sidescreens are to fit under it.

Yes the sidescreen pics look good, patterns would be appreciated. What is the main material used? Well the hood is now finished as can be seen from the pics. Now I might think of sidescreens and a hoodbag, once I've had a break! The whole job, making the frame and then covering it, has been a real fiddly process but made a little easier by being able to look at the 'Bed-Pan' for guidance.

Following the Tiger Moth restoration is most enjoyable, love the new dedicated site. I hope you can find all the necessary parts and that the work goes smoothly, it rarely does!

Mike.

Great photos - I hope to have the Bed-Pan's sidescreens on their way to you shortly - if you can then pass them on to Andy Streek before he sells it.

Glad you like the Tiger website - its going to continue to expand considerably over the next few days and weeks.

Ian

A lots been happening with this car! While working on the hood frame it became clear that there were a number of issues with the body generally. In particular there were two large plates holding the body together just behind the shoulder area. Plus B post movement it was clear that all was not well. So I made the decision to rebuild/replace the body dependant on what I found when the body was stripped down. The pictures tell some of the story so far, some of it good, some bad. So far it appears that most of the frame is original, as is possibly the metal mesh over the tail. More updates as this progresses.
Regards to all, Mike.

Hi Mike,

Very interesting photos. The perforated steel mesh is original. You should find a small patent play tack-welded onto it. I think it was patented by Gordon England who designed the body for Morris.

All looks very original to me, except the small steel angle bracket in the middle picture, which is not. The pictures show the spare wheel tray nicely.

The bottom picture shows the rear top curved timbers which are actually two timbers lap-jointed together. As can be imagined, they are an absolute sod to make a they twist and turn in every dimension known to man.

Not sure what you mean by the two large plates - do you mean the sill members?

Keep the photos coming.

Hallo Ian,
I had another look at the mesh and sure enough a metal tag bearing a patent number is attached to the underside near the tail. I am about to send you a separate e-mail with a picture about this. The metal bracket you refer to in the middle picture is replicated on the other side. They have been put there a long time ago to prevent the spare wheel slipping down and rubbing the inside of the body. The two metal plates I referred to were put in place (with many large bolts) many years ago to hold the body together! Both sides show breaks on the top rail approx. 11" to the rear of the B post. However the area has deteriorated badly and they are now removed. More pictures will follow.
Mike.

Hi Mike,

Understood. I bet not many people know about that patent plate on the Semi-sports!

Re those two brakets preventing the spare wheel from sliding back. On the original body there was a felt-covered wedge of ash screwed to the spine of the tail (and I think it is just visible in your lower photo). It was positioned above the wheel and wedged the hub cap, preventing thre wheel from moving aft, but the brackets seem a good-belt-and-braces modification (particularly if anyone ever fits narrower tyres) that is all but invisible.

Ian,
Thanks for that, you're right there is a piece of felt under the tail as you describe. I guess someone decided to improve upon that design!! Now that we have established that the mesh is original I thought that I would try you on the doors. I have uncovered this metal interlaced structure which I assume not to be original, but could just be? Anyway it shows up fairly clearly in the pictures. I would like to use this on the new doors, but somehow think that it might be better to cover the door in a ply panel, then use the aluminium edges. Your thoughts would be appreciated,
Mike

Thanks Mike.

I doubt very much whether any of this is original. The cross-frame supporting the fabric is definitely not original and since the brazing looks the same on the three edge pieces, I'd say they were not original either.

However, the three edge pieces look like they are basically per the original design. I believe they would have been steel on the original, but I did use aluminium. I also used aluminium across the top of the scuttle and on the sides of the tail, which were also steel in the original.

I also added aluminium strips on the three edges of the door timbers, over the fabric - which I think was the way they were done originally. And then there were aluminium threshold strips with the Morris script fitted to the door sills - as per the fabric saloons. All this has to be take into account before sizing the door to fit the hole in the body - so the doors don't scrape on the body when they are closed.

The other thing to watch is the amount of 'overhang' on the metal strip up the front edge of the door. This should be in three pieces which are fitted around the two hinges. If the overhang, once covered in fabric, is too much, it fouls the scuttle when the door is opened. I learned that one the hard way.

Thanks for all the advice, it sounds as if covering the doors are going to be fun! The original (?) metal strips are bent outwards at the leading edge to assist in the door fouling issue. I've just been through your s/sports restoration cd again, lots of questions about that but for another time. Thought I would post this picture of the mesh which now fits the new frame, after some adjustments and fettling. Just getting into my stride on this, but the freezing weather is not helping. Roll on a proper Spring!
Mike.