IA 9142

[Ian Grace]

Good winter progress, Mike. Presume you'll be using stainless water jacket sideplates?

[mike houston]

Yes I thought I would probably get s/steel, but possibly painted black? Incidentally whats the best way to overhaul the external copper oil pipes. I believe they get brittle with age and require annealing, how is this done? Would it be better to use new copper pipework and solder in the old connections?
Mike.

[Ian Grace]

Mike,

There is an MG chap than can supply a full set of new pipes. Same as M Type. I'll get you his contact details. The MG boys swear by always replacing all external pipes as a matter of course because of the embrittlement problem.

[Ian Grace]

Barry Foster is the MG oil pipe man:

Barry Foster, Rocke's Barn, Henley Lane, Butleigh, Glastonbury, BA6 8ST. Tel. 01458/850169

[ian judd]

To anneal the pipes you just heat them to red heat or close enough and dunk them in could water. The ends are brazed on. I wouldn't trust solder.

Ian

[mike houston]

At last the weather has improved a little and temperatures in the garage are just about bearable, so a little more progress to report. Post xmas the main bearing was attached to the crank, the support ring attached and the whole assembly installed in the block. The con rods were attached and the front and rear housings bolted on. The oil pump drive and new thrust bearings were installed, and the end float is in the region of 4 thou, with the thin copper spacer washer under the outer housing. Oil pump on as is the lower pulley and starter dog nut. The pulley has however been brazed in the past, and if anyone has a sound one I would be very interested!

Happy New Year to everyone, Mike.

[Ian Grace]

Hi Mike,

What a great way to start the New Year! Looking excellent. Have you lapped the pressure relief valve into its seat? They sometimes get quite pitted and leak. Are those depitching locknuts on the big end bolts? No split pins, but probably OK - they look like aircraft grade AGS nuts. What's next? The head?

[mike houston]

Ian,
Yes they are aircraft grade socket headed bolts with K-nuts, supplied by Pigsty Racing as used in their A****n seven racers. I was keen to use something better than standard when I saw how the standard items had thinned and stretched, and were clearly close to breaking! Yes, I think I will shortly be looking at the head again and at my available camshafts, but it will probably have to be a new one. Do you think that with a head skimmed to 3.5" and an 'M' type spec cam I can still stay with standard length valves? I'll look again at the relief valve, but all seems well.
Mike

[Highlander]

Mike and everyone else. - A Happy New Year - Just back from three nights of Scottish Dancing, too much eating and far too much drinking but what the hell!!! Is your pulley the same as a sv minor. I have two. Ring 0208 393 6732 (anytime but I am now golfing again as the snow has gone - best time PM- ) Highlander (Alister)

[Ian Grace]

Sure, standard length valves will be fine. They are the same part number as M Type valves, and the standard M head was 3.5". There is still plenty of gap to spare between the open valves and the pistons. You might want to fit double valve springs while you are about it. I had a valve spring break on my '29 fabric saloon a few years back - luckily the valve didn't damage the piston, but double springs preclude the possibility.

[mike houston]

Alister,
Thanks for your kind offer, but quick research indicates that lower pulleys from the two models are not the same, (unless anyone knows different!) I will look out for you and the Humber at Brooklands again this year. Best wishes,
Mike.

[mike houston]

Before fitting the sump I thought that I would have a closer look at the oil pick-up pipe that sits in the bottom of it, ( referred to in the Information Manual as the " internal oil suction pipe"). This consists only of a copper pipe with a wide slit along its lower length which is bent to run parallel almost at the bottom of the sump. It looks very crude and I would have thought is ideally positioned to pick -up any particles from the bottom of the sump and recirculate them around the engine. I suppose the only upside is that if your oil level is low it would pick up every last drop!!
However has anyone out there modified this at all? It seems to me that there are a number of possibilities. 1. To bend the pipe so that it sits in a higher position. 2. Attach a thin gauze around the existing slit opening. 3. Cut off the pipe fairly short and attach some kind of available filter, and 4. Leave well alone! I would welcome any thoughts, particularly if they are based on experience of this area!
Regards, Mike.

[Simon]

Make sure that the fine mesh gauze in the filter bowl is in good condition and also that the pressed brass cap to the bowl does not have any fine cracks or else the oil pump will not prime correctly. Also fill the filter bowl with oil when you fill the sump.

[Highlander]

Mike, I have seen your photograph of your block. I see it is OHV. The pulley looks the same as a SV. Is it? - noone has come back on the question. Is the thread on your crank different from mine? I have two SV pulleys. Had my military trews on this week and last at Burns Suppers - you never loose it!! See you soon, Highlander (Alister)

[mike houston]

Slowly making progress on the engine. With the big ends done up good and tight, plus loctite, the sump has gone back on. The stainless steel water jacket plates were powder coated and have also gone on. The almost new Minor camshaft I got with the s/sports spares was almost perfect apart from the gouge out of number 6 lobe! This has now been repaired and profiled so well I cannot see where it was done. This will go on, but could be replaced eventually with the apparant Mtype spec one from the s/sports, if it turns out to be good. The only thing causing me a problem at the moment is getting the distributor pinion in exactly the correct position, it just needs some extra time and patience. Also can anyone tell me why there appears to be a difference in the number of Belleville thrust washers on the rocker shafts on the Minor compared to the M type? The latter appears to need 10, the Minor seems to use 2 ? I can ony put it down to differing widths of the spacing tubes, which on the Minor includes the two long springs. Any guidance would be useful. The pictures hopefully show also the newly painted 'new' lower pulley. Thanks Tony. (Incidentally Alister I believe that the sv and ohc lower pulleys are different, hope to meet up again later this year.)

Regards to all, Mike.