KR 5670
Moderators: Ian Grace, Will Grace
Re: KR 5670
Yeah - my garage floor is smooth, but there is a half inch step up into the garage from the concrete in front of it - pushing a skated car up that step would probably not be possible.
Re: KR 5670
Ian,
Went to a Hornet Special meeting last night. What was the date of first registration of KR 5670, as it may be one of the earliest 2 door Hornet saloon bodies to survive as very few of them have survived in such good condition?
Went to a Hornet Special meeting last night. What was the date of first registration of KR 5670, as it may be one of the earliest 2 door Hornet saloon bodies to survive as very few of them have survived in such good condition?
Re: KR 5670
Simon,
It was registered 9.8.30, and the (Minor) chassis was laid down 16.5.30, so the Hornet budy must pre-date the registration date of the hybrid Minor/Hornet KR 5670 by some time, and probably also pre-date the laying down of the Minor chassis, if it was built to Maltby's order.
It was registered 9.8.30, and the (Minor) chassis was laid down 16.5.30, so the Hornet budy must pre-date the registration date of the hybrid Minor/Hornet KR 5670 by some time, and probably also pre-date the laying down of the Minor chassis, if it was built to Maltby's order.
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chris lambert
- Posts: 541
- Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 8:06 am
- Location: Suffolk. U.K.
- Contact:
Re: KR 5670
The Wolseley Hornet was announced to the world in Autocar on 18th April 1930 and the Motor on 22nd April - so wouldn't have pre-dated 15th May 1930 by much.
Re: KR 5670
I'm finally finding some time to get KR ready for firing up. I'm ordering four 400 x 19 inner tubes to fit in the tyres - just to get the car mobile. I'll probably fit new tyres in the spring and once I have the engine running and had a chance to do a general service of the brakes, suspension, etc.
And I'm looking for a battery, and want to fit a heavy duty unit, as the regular 6V batteries available for Beetles and MGB's are not up to the task.
So I'm Googling around in the US for something suitable, and I found this on the Hemmings website:
http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/200 ... ure34.html
Interestingly, this company also supplies reproduction Lucas batteries for British cars - so that seems appropriate, and this battery seems to be the heaviest duty unit available.
Here's their Lucas 6V battery:
http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/batte ... /17HF.html
This delivers 300 CCA (cold cranking amps), but I have the feeling that this isn't as good as the originals.
Once I have the car pushable with the new inner tubes, I'll be able to roll it out into the drive where I can more easily attend to it. Initial tasks will include draining and flushing the black treacle from the fuel tank, engine, gerarbox and back axle oil changes, a general chassis lube and then a fitting of the new battery and a careful check of the electrics and wiring. Then on to the electrickery system once I have some amps - check over the distributor, clean and adjust bthe points - do I have a spark?
The biggest unknown is the state of the wiring - which is original. It looks OK, and I only want to replace what is absolutely necessary. But as insurance, I'll make sure I have a fire extingusisher onboard!
And I'm looking for a battery, and want to fit a heavy duty unit, as the regular 6V batteries available for Beetles and MGB's are not up to the task.
So I'm Googling around in the US for something suitable, and I found this on the Hemmings website:
http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/200 ... ure34.html
Interestingly, this company also supplies reproduction Lucas batteries for British cars - so that seems appropriate, and this battery seems to be the heaviest duty unit available.
Here's their Lucas 6V battery:
http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/batte ... /17HF.html
This delivers 300 CCA (cold cranking amps), but I have the feeling that this isn't as good as the originals.
Once I have the car pushable with the new inner tubes, I'll be able to roll it out into the drive where I can more easily attend to it. Initial tasks will include draining and flushing the black treacle from the fuel tank, engine, gerarbox and back axle oil changes, a general chassis lube and then a fitting of the new battery and a careful check of the electrics and wiring. Then on to the electrickery system once I have some amps - check over the distributor, clean and adjust bthe points - do I have a spark?
The biggest unknown is the state of the wiring - which is original. It looks OK, and I only want to replace what is absolutely necessary. But as insurance, I'll make sure I have a fire extingusisher onboard!
Re: KR 5670
Then there is this Interstate battery:
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_e ... +-+610+CCA
610 cold cranking amps. Probably a much better bet - even if it doesn't say 'Lucas' on the side!
I just have to check if a 10.25 inch long battery will fit the standard Minor battery carrier.
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_e ... +-+610+CCA
610 cold cranking amps. Probably a much better bet - even if it doesn't say 'Lucas' on the side!
I just have to check if a 10.25 inch long battery will fit the standard Minor battery carrier.
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Trevor Wilkinson
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 4:44 pm
- Location: Bedfordshire UK
Re: KR 5670
The standard battery, (Type 404) is only 8.5 inches long 
Re: KR 5670
Hi Trevor,
That's what I was worried about - without measuring my battery box, 10.25" seemed a long battery length!
So I might be stuck with the 300 CCA 'Lucas' battery.
That's what I was worried about - without measuring my battery box, 10.25" seemed a long battery length!
So I might be stuck with the 300 CCA 'Lucas' battery.
Re: KR 5670
Ian. Avoid the MGB battery. The beetle battery should be OK as I think that is what the 404 is. If possible get the 19 plate version. If you have any doubts check with Lincoln batteries. Sorry do not have their e-mail address to hand. I have two 404/19's in my Minors and have no problems but I have heavy duty cables from the negative terminal to the starter motor body - makes all the difference.
Re: KR 5670
Swung by Les Schwab last night and dropped in the first wheel for inner tube replacement. While there I rifled their battery stock and found a 6V battery that is 9.1" long, and so fits neatly in the battery carrier. It gives 650 cold cranking amps (at zero F) and 800 and zero C, so it should be more than adequate for the Minor. And at only $66 is a great deal. I'll pick it up tonight.
Meanwhile, further research on the Hornet body is turning up more interesting information. First, the front lower corners of the body are not chamfered like the Minor bodies to accommodate the sloping back edge of the front wings. This absolutely distinguished Minor from Hornet bodies.
Second, the production data for the 1930 Hornets (some 2,500 cars) has survived and are ALL either saloons or coupes - i.e. there were NO chassis made available to coachbuilders. This may have been because pressure of orders for finished cars precluded any spare capacity to release chassis to coachbuilders. So, if you wanted a sporting body on the new 6 cylinder chassis, your only option was to purchase a new saloon and take it to a coachbuilder and do some kind of part exchange deal with the saloon body, and the only option for the coachbuildr weas to sell it on or fit it to a Minor chassis obtained from Cowley. Backing up this theory is the fact that the contemporary trade press had numerous new Hornet saloon bodies advertised for sale.
Got to run - just had an e-mail from the printers. M 139 is ready for collection!
Meanwhile, further research on the Hornet body is turning up more interesting information. First, the front lower corners of the body are not chamfered like the Minor bodies to accommodate the sloping back edge of the front wings. This absolutely distinguished Minor from Hornet bodies.
Second, the production data for the 1930 Hornets (some 2,500 cars) has survived and are ALL either saloons or coupes - i.e. there were NO chassis made available to coachbuilders. This may have been because pressure of orders for finished cars precluded any spare capacity to release chassis to coachbuilders. So, if you wanted a sporting body on the new 6 cylinder chassis, your only option was to purchase a new saloon and take it to a coachbuilder and do some kind of part exchange deal with the saloon body, and the only option for the coachbuildr weas to sell it on or fit it to a Minor chassis obtained from Cowley. Backing up this theory is the fact that the contemporary trade press had numerous new Hornet saloon bodies advertised for sale.
Got to run - just had an e-mail from the printers. M 139 is ready for collection!
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Trevor Wilkinson
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 4:44 pm
- Location: Bedfordshire UK
Re: KR 5670
When I bought my Minor it had an almost new "Beetle" battery fitted, it gave good service and only started to show signs of weakening after thirteen years. 
Re: KR 5670
Spent a couple of hours on the Molseley Minet today - starting to get it ready to fire up. The longest job by far was sorting out the radiator drain tap. It was solid in the radiator and took a considerable amount of effort and bashed knuckles to get it out without jamming a spanner through the honeycomb. It had to come out because the tap lever was also solid, and the brass arm was threatening to bend as I tried to operate it. With the help of WD40 it is now sorted and re-fitted. I need to make sure the entire water system is watertight and filled before thinking about starting her up.
I also took the back seat squab out which was covered in thick dust, and gave it a buff up. It doesn't look like anyone has ever sat on it. The view below shows the seat from the rear, revealing a pair of turnbuckle fittings on the back edge - but there are no corresponding turnbuckles behind it. And in any case, how would you operate them - the turnbuckles would have to be inside the seat! Obviously original, but what could their purpose possibly be? Presumably for ventilation - to let air out as you sit on the seat. Has anyone else got an original back seat with this feature?
One more small surprise today - in the dashboard ash tray, a 1967 penny.
The image below shows the general state of the car under the bonnet - lots of dirt but basically sound. Another plus is that the oil is clean and new - must have been changed very shortly before it last ran, so there is no water, acid or other corrosive gunk in the sump. But I will be draining and refilling anyway, and I have a good original under tray to fit at the same time.
This question still nags at me every time I go into the garage - how far to go with the restoration? The interior is a problem - the original headlining has shrunk a good inch or so in width (see third picture below), so it has pulled away from the sides and is hanging down a bit. There is no way to re-fit it, so the interior is original but tatty in places. I'm sure I could get the car driving as it is, without any obvious restoration, but the coachwork, seats and interior - not to mention the exterior fabric - would be terribly delicate and would deteriorate rapidly if used more than once in a blue moon - which just isn't my style. If it were to be restored faithfully, what better starting point of reference than a car that is virtually completely original and mechanically virtually unworn. So do I go down the Halbe route and end up with a fully restored car - as close as possible to the original specification, or preserve it as a rolling museum time capsule? It is a VERY difficult decision and everyone's views would be very much appreciated. I wonder what Olive Willats would have suggested ...
I also took the back seat squab out which was covered in thick dust, and gave it a buff up. It doesn't look like anyone has ever sat on it. The view below shows the seat from the rear, revealing a pair of turnbuckle fittings on the back edge - but there are no corresponding turnbuckles behind it. And in any case, how would you operate them - the turnbuckles would have to be inside the seat! Obviously original, but what could their purpose possibly be? Presumably for ventilation - to let air out as you sit on the seat. Has anyone else got an original back seat with this feature?
One more small surprise today - in the dashboard ash tray, a 1967 penny.
The image below shows the general state of the car under the bonnet - lots of dirt but basically sound. Another plus is that the oil is clean and new - must have been changed very shortly before it last ran, so there is no water, acid or other corrosive gunk in the sump. But I will be draining and refilling anyway, and I have a good original under tray to fit at the same time.
This question still nags at me every time I go into the garage - how far to go with the restoration? The interior is a problem - the original headlining has shrunk a good inch or so in width (see third picture below), so it has pulled away from the sides and is hanging down a bit. There is no way to re-fit it, so the interior is original but tatty in places. I'm sure I could get the car driving as it is, without any obvious restoration, but the coachwork, seats and interior - not to mention the exterior fabric - would be terribly delicate and would deteriorate rapidly if used more than once in a blue moon - which just isn't my style. If it were to be restored faithfully, what better starting point of reference than a car that is virtually completely original and mechanically virtually unworn. So do I go down the Halbe route and end up with a fully restored car - as close as possible to the original specification, or preserve it as a rolling museum time capsule? It is a VERY difficult decision and everyone's views would be very much appreciated. I wonder what Olive Willats would have suggested ...
Re: KR 5670
Hello Ian,
In my case the proposition was simple,VG was in a far worse condition than KR, so if i wanted to drive the car a full restoration was a in order. No point in doing it only half.
If I had the choice i would keep KR in a timewarp state it is in right now, changing fabric can always be done at a later point in time.
I think the mc evoy is more in need of a full restoration
Regards Halbe
In my case the proposition was simple,VG was in a far worse condition than KR, so if i wanted to drive the car a full restoration was a in order. No point in doing it only half.
If I had the choice i would keep KR in a timewarp state it is in right now, changing fabric can always be done at a later point in time.
I think the mc evoy is more in need of a full restoration
Regards Halbe
Re: KR 5670
Ian, the turn buckle holes aren't there to be used as turn buckles, they are there simply to let the air out of the seat when you sit on it, otherwise with the carhyde being air tight, its basically a giant whoopy cushion...........!!
And as far as restoration goes, you're the only one that can make that decision, but if it were me, i would take hundreds of pictures for reference, then on the interior make at least a new headlining, as its not useable as it is........ then get the car useable with original exterior fabric etc, and as and when it becomes in need of redoing, do it in stages........ that way it never becomes a full on project, and you should be able to keep using it as you do jobs..... and as for what Olive would say........ well, she used the car didn;t she? so there's the answer!!
And as far as restoration goes, you're the only one that can make that decision, but if it were me, i would take hundreds of pictures for reference, then on the interior make at least a new headlining, as its not useable as it is........ then get the car useable with original exterior fabric etc, and as and when it becomes in need of redoing, do it in stages........ that way it never becomes a full on project, and you should be able to keep using it as you do jobs..... and as for what Olive would say........ well, she used the car didn;t she? so there's the answer!!
