JF 4238 1933 Minor Saloon

[Jpallis001]

I need to decide whether I should attempt to re-position the accelerator pedal so that it is in the 'normal' position. Any advice/thinking out there? Would I need a different brake pedal? (to move it closer to the clutch pedal, to create the space for the re-positioned accelerator)

[Highlander]

Why? Highlander.

[Jpallis001]

Good Morning Highlander from a bright and very pleasant Monday in County Durham.

Why?

- I have not driven anything with the 'go' pedal positioned a bit lower, but in the same position that I would expect to find the 'stop' (OK, perhaps the 'slow down a bit') pedal.

Are you saying that it is not something that I should worry about?, something that I would soon get used to?

John

[Highlander]

John, Perhaps I have got the wrong end of the stick!! I thought you were moving the pedal from its 'centre' position to the modern right hand side position. I would say 90% of the cars I have owned have had a centre pedal. I t is second nature for me driving either and I never think abaout it. What ever, it is your car and you can put the pedals where you like!! Enjoy and happy minoring. Highlander.

[Jpallis001]

Hi Highlander, you had got hold of the correct end of the stick/pedal - I am, while I have everything in bits, thinking about whether or not I ought to move the accellerator into a 'modern' position. I am hoping to pop the gearbox in + finish the brake pulleys in the next few days and am looking forward to running the chassis up and down the back street while no one is watching. (Need to get a bit of pipe bent or they might hear me!) Sounds like you would advise leaving it where it is and just get used to it?

[Ian Grace]

I'd echo Alister's sentiments. The central throttle position has never caused me problems. Only once when I got back into my modern after driving the Minor on a long journey - put brain in neutral and tried to use the brake pedal to accelerate!

[Trevor Wilkinson]

My throttle pedal is on the right, and having also driven centre pedalled Minors I find that the right pedalled option is more comfortable. (And easier on the brain)

[Ian Grace]

When the McEvoy arrives next month, I thought I'd rebuilt it left-hand drive, so it matches my moderns over here in Seattle. So I plan to have the gas (aka accelerator) pedal on the left and the brake pedal on the right. But then I thought that I really want to preserve the quirkiness of the Morris, so I'm going to leave the clutch pedal on the right side of the car, then cross my legs so I can still work the clutch with my left foot. Seems logical.

[Ronald]

Highlander, i have been driving MT since i was only just able to walk, i have never one got in and pressed the wrong pedal, i quite often jump in and outof maual cars, auto's, and the minor all within the space of a few minutes.......... save yourself the agro of changin it, and spend that time driving it instead,.........................

[Highlander]

Ronald - I am on your side - it is John who wants to change!!! Highlander.

[Jpallis001]

OK so I am still thinking about the pedals - relined clutch; refitted clutch and gearbox; adjusted clutch. The clutch appears to work and I can find 3 forward gears (forgot to check reverse).

I could not find anyone who had a clever bender that would bend skinny exhaust pipe, so, with the help of a local workshop -filled the pipe with sand (after welding on ends to keep sand in) then gave it some heat and bent to 95%. Welded on a big washer rather than attempting to flare the pipe for the manifold + mated with Reliant (I think) silence. Fits well and does quieten the engine down, although I am now able to hear the tappets + few other rattles.

Will have to try + fit the prop shaft tomorrow night. I have two good leather couplings as well as some Conveyor belting couplings. I am going to try the leather ones first. The leather is very dry, is there any procedure for soaking/treating the leather to make it more supple/flexible? Is there a right or wrong way to fit the prop shaft + couplings?

exhaust and gearbox.jpg (115.3 KiB) Viewed 1953 times

[Ian Grace]

John,

As for fitting the couplings, this will be much easier with the body off. There is no wrong way, but the couplings can be a bit of a fight to get in and then line up the holes to get the bolts through the couplings and spiders. When you first offer everything up, it looks like the prop shaft is about half an inch too long, but the couplings do eventually fit with a bit of gumption, ingenuity and native cunning. I use a couple of stout screwdrivers to lever things into place. I'd make sure the nuts are secured - the originals were split pinned, most people these days probably use stiffnuts. I'm not surprised the leather couplings are stiff - the new rubber ones are virtually inflexible too - until they are forced into position and bolted up. When you fit the bolts, make sure the heads are the right way round, so the threaded ends of the bolts don't foul the gearbox or diff. This can happen if the bolts are a bit on the long side.

[Ronald]

Even with the body off, when fitting the propshaft and couplings, its probably worth putting a load of weight on the back of the chassis, this will mean the distance between gearbox and axle is increased, hopefully making fitting the prop slightly easier.........!

[Jpallis001]

You were certainly right about fitting the couplings; not a five minute job even with the body off. used sash clamps, and then ratchet straps to pull the axel back - ended up pulling out the front shackle pin from the rear spring! - and it is possible to do with the body on?

Back to the 'clatter' on my engine; can anyone tell me what the correct Tappet Clearance should be on SV engine 29309? I set it for 19 Thou but have just read something that suggest 4 Thou?

And then the complicated bit: I have two distributors both Lucas DKH 41's, one new. I gather that the car should have a DS4 distributor fitted. I have fitted the new DKH 41 to get the car started but suspect that the clatter/knocking is to do with the distributor being designed to rotate, and therefore automatically advance, when rotated in the 'wrong' direction. Can the DKH be 'fettled' so that it can be used? (disable weights?) - are DS4's available?

Distributor 1.jpg (69.15 KiB) Viewed 1872 times

Distributor 2.jpg (84.46 KiB) Viewed 1872 times

distributor 3.jpg (88.47 KiB) Viewed 1872 times

[Ronald]

On the subject of propshaft couplings, its worth noting that not all props are the same length, and when loaded with the body etc its ideal if the prop coupling looks 'flat'.... not bent badly, as this will increase the pressure on the diff pinion, and could well lead to premature diff failure..............!!!