Well, rang the dynamo people, they have a dds2 in stock, 350+........ or, go 12volt and they do an alternator inside the same casing, so no-one would know, but given the price, you'd want to show it off, trust me!!!
So, gonna go and see them with mine, and they can fix it........ or if not, the 350 it is i guess.......
I already am, i refitted the strap on ford dynamo, and the ammeter showed a charge, and the cut-out operated correctly,........ turns out we're gonna drive up to nottingham and watch them test it, then see what the outcome is, need to go up that way for something else anyway.....
Roland, I thouight you said you were going to Nottingham to see a Test!!!!! I hope it all turns out well. You mention £350 for a dynamo? Is that what people are asking? I must look into my dynamo box and see just what I have - m ostly Austin and Alvis but I think I have a sv morris. Cold again today just back from early golf. Highlander.
If your sv Morris one turns out to be a 12V C45 Model I would be most interested in purchasing for my 10/4.....not for £350 though....con men or what !!!
Highlander, yes, i will be travelling to Nottingham for them to TEST my dynamo before i get them to either sort it out, or call it scrap, then and only then will i really know what to do, i personally don;t think 350 is that bad for a BRAND NEW dynamo......... how many people have new stock for 80 yr old cars these days... not many.....
Paul, how you can say they're con men when you firstly don;t know them, and i guessing but also jumped to the same conclusion that it was an old dynamo i don;t know, like i say, i think 350 isn't bad for NEW...
Roland, £350 is an age thing - Paul and I are of an age when we could have purchased a 4 1/2 litre Bentley for that price and it is very hard not to think that way now. As I have said before on this blogg I ruck at 35P for an iced bun for my tea - that to me is seven shillings - Highlander.
It sounds to me that the dynamo needs repolarizing. This can happen after a dynamo has been rebuilt, it happened to me a long time ago when I had my Oxford dynamo rebuilt. I did it in situ . I seem to remember I did it with the ignition switched off disconnect the dynamo leads and with a piece of wire held on the NON earth side of the battery touch its other end on the F terminal of the dynamo. It only needs to be flashed across. It worked with mine straight away. I have heard of it done other ways. Has anybody had this problem and tried this remedy.Mike
I've repolarised dynamos by closing the cut out points for a half a second, the only problem this way is that the points sometimes want to stay closed and have to be pulled apart but it works. This is done without the engine running.
Yes, I have also done it this way but I seem to remember doing it with the engine running but I cannot be sure that is why I never mentioned it previously.
I think i actually did manually close the cut-out points for a moment or two to see if the ammeter would flicker, but nothing........... i wouldn't know where to start doing something like that, so best if i didn't really..... thanks anyway.......
When i dropped the dynamo off at the repair man, he questioned wether the car had a cut out or regulator....... which stumped me, apparently the 2 brush ones and 3 brush ones shuldn't have the same control system........ anyone have any idea if they did actually change the regulator or cut out which ever it is...LOL!!
The standard fit for our cars is a cut-out - the voltage regulator is a modern thing - quite different. You should have a Lucas CF3 cut-out on your tourer, and a 3-brush dynamo.
A bit more perspective!... The same company only charged around £50 for a sv dynamo EXCHANGE 2ND HAND! The sv ones are only exchange as the endplate is unusual and the price goes way up if it's damaged and a new one is required. I believe the repolarising should not be done at the cut out as you can damage the cut out by manually closing the points.