1933 Maddox Fixed head Coupe EN 5810

[maddpuk]

I'm pleased to have spotted this perished fuel hose now rather than later. I suspect I've had more flexible copper pipe!
Now replaced with some 6mm ID fuel hose that I had to-hand.

Old fuel hose.jpeg (2.05 MiB) Viewed 2016 times

[maddpuk]

Whilst working on a complete refresh of the dash, it's clear the Ignition Warning Lamp is also a little past its best.

Ignition warning lamp.jpeg (3.11 MiB) Viewed 2015 times

[maddpuk]

Where do these go?!

Unknown axle parts.jpeg (6.79 MiB) Viewed 2014 times

[Ian Grace]

Paul, these are for the front hubs. The chamfered steel rings go on the stub axles first, then the hub, then the brass oiler plate and finally the nut. If you fit sealed front wheel bearings (set of four), you don't really need the brass oiler plates.

Great progress!

Ian

[maddpuk]

Starting to gather some new parts:

Sourced two Ash battens to fit on the floor support brackets where the new floor is to be fitted. These were sold as off-cuts on E-Bay by a very helpful seller that cut them down to the required finished dimensions, just leaving me to mitre the ends to-length.

Ash battens for front floor mount.jpeg (4.24 MiB) Viewed 1650 times

And lots of cable to start harness assembly:

Harness kit.jpeg (3.06 MiB) Viewed 1650 times

[maddpuk]

NSR brake finally assembled, though I had to remove the recently fitted slave cylinder in order to fit the shoes - does anybody know if this is correct, or did I miss a trick?

NSR brake assembled.jpeg (2.85 MiB) Viewed 1649 times

[Ian Grace]

That looks all good, Paul. Well done for solving the jigsaw puzzle!

[maddpuk]

Making the new wiring loom feels a little daunting, so I figured start with something easy - the wiring to the combined horn push and dip switch came out separately so I have started there.

The 28/0.30 braided cable felt too big for these wires, but I am pretty certain that's what came out and the car looks to use that same specification everywhere. If doing it again, I am certain 14/0.30 would be better suited and more than adequately rated (8.75 A!)

Next set-back was a side to one of the slotted grub screws on the horn contacts sheared off, not made any easier by their relatively short length making them almost flush with its terminal. Multiple applications of penetrating oil before attempting to remove worked its magic. The hunt for a replacement led me to 5BA, though only readily available with 1/4" length, slightly longer than original which is certainly better than shorter. I only found steel rather than brass too.

Horn grub screws.jpeg (3.18 MiB) Viewed 1066 times

And the finished assembly:

Horn and Dip switch assembly rewired.jpeg (6.33 MiB) Viewed 1066 times

The tails at the other end are only just long enough - it's surprising how much length is taken up inside the switch itself in the necessary bends. That our I should have shortened the outer braided section? Again, it should work.

[Ian Grace]

That's interesting, Paul. I don't think I have heard of 5BA before - only even-numberd BA's.

What was your source of these? And I wonder if all of the grub screws used by Lucas, in the ignition switch, cutout, etc. are also 5BA.

I recently acquired an identical horn/dip switch for my McEvoy, which will also require a complete rewire at some point, so interested in your wire spec. comments.

Keep up the good work!

[maddpuk]

Hi Ian.

I ordered the grub screws from BA-Bolts.co.uk. A relatively simple website, but easy ordering process. I get the impression such small sizes are more commonly used for scale railway projects.
The Ignition switch uses larger 2BA. Here too I ordered 1/4" length, which comes up slightly shorter than the original, but should be OK. I bought spares just in case.
I still need to check the cut-out. Those grub screws look OK, but I'm keen to use new anywhere the slotted head has become a bit 'knarled'.

My comments on the potential use of the lower rated cable works for me as I assume the horn is relatively nominal current and I am wiring my headlights as standard with the relay NS dip, so there's no full headlamp current running through the switch.

Which brings me to a thought - why did they opt to dip the NS and switch off the OS? Surely, doing the opposite would work just as well - OS would dip towards kerb(?) and you're less likely to appear like an approaching motorbike hogging to the kerb?!

[maddpuk]

Grub screws for the Lucas Regulator/cut-out and bulkhead junction box use BSF 1/4" - 26 (26 TPI) x 3/8" grub screws, readily available in brass.

[Ian Grace]

Thanks for that, Paul.

Useful information.

Ian