SV2612 - a restoration project in Sweden

[gubben]

King pin bushes reamed
The new king pins and swivel bushes has arrived from Ian Harris. And the thinking starts How to remove the old bushes? How to press the new ones in? And how to ream the bushes to a perfect fit for the king pins?
Well, my local expert in machine works has to be consulted. And that was really a good help. First he helped me with a tool to hammer the old bushes out and the new one in – it was only a couple of minutes work by the “svarv” (turning machine??)!

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Then he lend me the right tool to ream the bushes – a adjustable ream with a proper guide to ensure that the two bushes are perfect aligned. But first the old bushes has to be removed. The tool worked perfect… very simple to tap the bushes out!

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It was “a piece of cake” to tap the new bushes in place.

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Then the real work began. In small steps the bushes vare reamed to the right fit. About a 1/50 mm a time it took it’s time but the result was excellent. After a hours work the king pin had a good “push” fit. Note the guide in picture - necessary to ensure that the two bushes are perfect aligned.

Expanding reamer 1.jpg (199.73 KiB) Viewed 9160 times

Sorry about the pictures. Have not found the right format yet...

[gubben]

Wish list
Parallel struggle with the restoring of wheels, hangers a.s.o. I´m spending a lot of time searching parts. My wish list looks like this. I´ve excluded parts that I can find at suppliers as Ian Harris:

- Radiator (with or without surrond) complete with cap
- Engine (restored or useable order or a good object, as complete as possible (everything is missing such as: mainfolds, carburator, dynamo, starter, distributer, pulley, flywheel)
- Gearbox (restored or useable order or a good object)
- Clutch assembly complete with releasing fork, shaft / brackets etc for clutch and brake pedal (miss all except the pedals)
- Handbrake lever
- Dynamo relay
- Propeller shaft
- Accelerator pedal and shaft and if needed necessary brackets etc (everything is missing)
- Soft top / (or maybe you call it hood) (every missing so all from just a drawing to a complete ”whether kit” is of interest)
- shock absorbers
And I´m sure a lot of more parts but I havn´t the hole picture yet…

If I can´t find engine, gearbox etc I have a second plan - convert to Morris 8 "drive line". A lot of work but with my car it´s almost more work to recover the original condition. And take my time finding the original parts I need...
Although the most important parts just now is the parts in bold.
/Thomas

[gubben]

No engine yet
It seems hard to find a engine. I may have a gearbox though and a prop shaft is in pipeline. And a radiator is also located - so with some luck these parts can be deleted from my "wish list".

The gearbox probably needs to be rebuild but that doesn't frighten me.

But my big problem just now is to find a engine in not too bad shape.

[plj]

Thomas,
A chap called Brian, UK phone no. 01782 515802 has been advertising a s.v. engine dismantled for reconditioning and various other minor parts. Could be worth a phone call (he doesn't seem to have an e-mail address).

Regards,

Philip

[gubben]

Thomas,
A chap called Brian, UK phone no. 01782 515802 has been advertising a s.v. engine dismantled for reconditioning and various other minor parts. Could be worth a phone call (he doesn't seem to have an e-mail address).

Regards,

Philip

Thank you Philip. I´ll check this...

[gubben]

Brake trough
The brakes gave me more trouble than expected. First the shoes. After inspection it was clear that only three of eight shoes were good enought to reline.

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The three brake shoes at the right was OK

But I was lucky and find five good shoes by my forum friend Toby. Toby send his five and I send my three to Ian Harris and the problem was solved. A week later I could collect eight brake shoes relined at the post office!

The drums was in extraordinary good shape. The must have been machined in a lathe… excellent surface all around.

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Brake drums in good shape

After cleaning and spraying the drums was good as new.

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Brake drum ready

The backplate needs more attention. The lever bushes, the alignment between the brake cam lever and pin and even some rust gives me some hours tricky work but the result was good enough.

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A backplate ready

Ian Harris also delivered new springs and when the shoes was mounted it looked like this:

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Brakeshoes mounted

Maybe it will be a good idea to put just a little grease between the shoe ends and cam lever surface?

[Ian Grace]

Nice work - well done - and thanks for posting these detailed updates with great photos.

Yes, go ahead and liberally grease the brake cams and also the fulcrum pins.

I have just received three backplates from Keith Montell in Australia for my McEvoy so will be carrying out the same work shortly. I have 8 shoes for re-lining do will get them away to Ian Harris next week.

I will need an expanding reamer for my new bushes so might see if I can order one from Namrick. I also need one for my kingpin bushes.

[Ian Grace]

I must add that I applaud your efforts and resolve in restoring this Minor properly and to such a high standard, far from the necessary resources. Your project is an inspiration to us all. Keep up the great work!

[gubben]

I only have eyes for …
When dismantling the leaf springs I was really terrified. I could wiggle the springs in all directions… ugh! The eyes was worn, the bolts were worn and I went inside for seeking comfort with a cup of coffee – feeling a bit worn out myself.

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New bolts – no problem. You can find them at Ian Harris. But the springs? No way. After a sleepless night I went back to the garage for a really close inspection. The eyes had the shape of an egg but maybe not worse than it will be possible to drill up the eyes and press in bushes.

Working with spring steel is a hard business. And drilling up a hole that isn´t perfect round is not easy in any material. The drill will easily stuck and broke in pieces. So, take it easy!

And it´s most important that the holes are aligned so you don´t get torsional forces when the springs are working. A lot of time was spent on this matter…

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After this operation I have two broken drills but also eight round and nice 15 mm eyes. The rest was easy. An old spring bolt was the perfect tool too press in the bushes.

Leaf spring bush and tool.jpg (172.53 KiB) Viewed 9105 times

Singing “I only have eyes for you…” I went inside for another cup of coffee! Not worn at all

[gubben]

Engine forgery – but why?
When I bought the little Morris my knowledge of old pre war Morris was limited, not to say almost zero. And I didn´t have the time for a close inspection when I collected it. Yes, Yes … I know! You just don´t do so And, my dear Thomas, how is it possible to miss the Ford mark stamped on the block? ! ?

ID-plate engine no 2902 A.jpg (235.26 KiB) Viewed 9088 times

Well, to my defense – who could expect that Henry Ford would have the nerve to fool ME? And I did in fact check the engine number. First at the ID-plate and then at the engine: 2902A. YES! Matching number

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Several hours and miles later, at home, I noticed that my new Morris has a Ford engine!
After some discussion the seller agreed to reduce the car price to half the sum. But how come that the numbers matched?

A closer look at the ID-plate revealed that the number seemed to been stamped in – all other information was printed. AHA! Someone had manipulated the plate!

But, then I learned that the car and engine came on different lines and that the engine number was in fact stamped in at the factory. OK, then someone had stamped in the right engine number on the false engine! Not an easy task to do – and why bother? I have not a clue!

Well, now the engine is out of the car and have bidders on E-bay so it´s all soon history. And the Ford engine has left the car to give place for a more suitable alternative...

Ford lämnar Morris.JPG (229.39 KiB) Viewed 9088 times

[Ian Grace]

Thomas,

Incredible! Cannot imagine why anyone would go to the trouble of stamping the original Morris engine number from the chassis plate onto the Ford engine - unless it was something to do with import paperwork in the past?

Incidentally, the chassis plate was originally screwed onto the firewall, not riveted on to the scuttle dash.

Any luck in sourcing a correct SV engine?

Keep up the good work, and thanks for keeping us up to date with the restoration.

Ian

[martinng]

I notice that there is a 1932 Minor on Car and Classic together with a "spare" engine.
Maybe the seller would be prepared to do a deal for the engine only.
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C400036
Martin

[gubben]

I notice that there is a 1932 Minor on Car and Classic together with a "spare" engine.
Maybe the seller would be prepared to do a deal for the engine only.
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C400036
Martin

Thanks Martin, I´ll check this!
Hopefully I may locate an engine before June - I intend to visit the PWMN rally this year... but, sadly, not in my Minor

[gubben]

Well, summer is soon over, autumn is approaching and with it new vigorous action in the garage. You see, laying on the garage floor is not my cup of tea when the roads are dry and free of snow! A lot of miles completed in my Alfa Romeo and my Morris Minor (post war). But next summer...
Hope be back soon with news from the Minor -31 restoration.
Thomas

[gubben]

Spent some hours with the little Morris today. Just enough time to assemble the front springs.
A little reflection - I usually turn the crown nuts very firmly and then unload a "track".
Someone who has a different opinion?

Do also remember that I once read that it may be good idea to grind down the nut heads (I have replaced the rivets to the rear spring bracket with bolt connections) so the spring hangers should be able to move freely - is it really necessary?

(And yes, if anyone is wondering, I´m not going to restore the frame - it´s quite good as it is. )

Thomas