SV2612 - a restoration project in Sweden

[gubben]

The little Morris was manufactured in may 1931as a 100£ Two-seater roadster. The serial number is SV2612 and engine number 2902A. I know nothing about the history until 1952 when it was imported to Denmark. In Denmark it got number BE 21-754 and after four different owners it was imported to Sweden 1971.

All export/import papers verify serial and engine number. And the numbers are correctly stamped on the identification plate and on the engine. This is imporant beacuse the engine yet is a mystery. I´ll come back to that very confusing subject later...

The car has never been on the road here in Sweden and it has pased trow the hands of five different owners. The engine mystery and the long ”of-road”-history was of course important facts and I bought the car realy cheep .

After almost a year storage in my garage it´s now time to take on the work and get the car back to the road. The picture shows the car with its "interesting" homemade pig-alike nose http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... 3a9n22.jpg (Sorry - I did´t manage to publish pictures in another way than this)

[gubben]

After a short inspection of the breaks and hubs I made this notes:

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... -plate.jpg

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... kplate.jpg

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... -shoes.jpg

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... -shoes.jpg

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... -shoes.jpg

Well, I look foreward to comments and some advise how to act.

[gubben]

I just ordered a Bowden conversion kit, set of king pins (not SV), break shoes (= a set for one axle), castor angle wedges and some other parts to the break system. While waiting for this I started to dismantle the wheel hubs, bearings and back plates to further examination. I will try to find suitable replacement bearings from a local SKF-dealer if possible.
/Thomas

[gubben]

By the way - does anyone have a tips to a link with pictures of the breaking system? I have looked around this forum whiteout success.
/Thomas

[plj]

Thomas,
If you look at the top of the page you will see a search box, enter brakes (note the correct spelling) press search, and you will come up with 22 pages of brake references, if you then click on the highlighted word in each post it gives you the full text.
Make sure you have plenty of time!!

Philip

[Ian Grace]

Thomas,

I just e-mailed you an article on Minor brakes that appeared in an early issue of our magazine. This and other trechnical articles from the magazine can be found in the Members' Area of the website, or on the Anniversary CD which includes all of our first 37 magazines and all five Yearbooks.

Cheers,

Ian

[gubben]

After cleaning and painting right front backplate and some other brake parts I got problem; the king pin locking bolt just refused to loose. The nut was no problem but the locking bold itself resisted all my efforts and known engineering tricks - except heating to avoid material stress. So I decided to let it bee until I have the front axel on the bench and drill it out, bit for bit because I think it´s conical.

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... -ready.jpg
http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... ng-nut.jpg

The good news are that I may get hold of a original pedal set thanks to this forum.
/Thomas

[gubben]

In order to get the front part of the car more “spacy” the terrible homemade radiator surrounding was removed together with the radiator it self. Since the original surrounding has a totaly different form (see figure) it was necessary to reshape the hood plates. So, why not do it “on the spot”!

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... ringen.jpg
http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... passas.jpg

[Ian Grace]

Thomas, that will make a HUGE improvement! Glad to see you have the correct radiator to fit.

[gubben]

Keeping up the inspiration
When taking on a huge project it´s really important that a few conditions are fulfilled.

First “time”. And a lot of it; Well I´m retired so time is no problem.

Second “an understanding wife”, that is a wife that thinks it´s much better to have her husband under a car then making nothing in the kitchen. I love her!

Third “experience and knowledge”: A number of projects has passed; Rover, Alfa Romeos en masse , Davrian race car… but none “pre war” so far!

Fourth “the project itself” ought to give you a lot of feed back, inspiration and nice problems to solve. Here is the satisfaction of making even small victories, important e.g. parts restored, painted and ready for final assembly.
http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... -ready.jpg

When it comes to part three and four I must say that this forum is a outstanding help.
/Thomas

Did I mention “money”? Well thats one of the problems you have to solve…

[gubben]

Rear bearing measures confuses me
Well, after dismantling the rear hubs and bearings some unexpected problems turned up. When I measured the bearings it gives this result: 40x80x18 mm.

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... x80x18.jpg

But the tap on the rear axle measured just under 40 mm – 39,85 mm to be exact. And it was even possible to feel this gap by hand when putting the bearing on the axle tap. Not good att all!

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... rc3b6r.jpg

To take this gap a former mechanic had wrapped a shim between the tap an bearing. I suppose thats would be the medicine even for me.

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... -35344.jpg

[gubben]

Puzzling joint
Is this some kind of homemade joint? It looks like a primitiv form of Hardy joint.
http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... knut-1.jpg
http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... knut-2.jpg

[Ian Grace]

Ha! That's the original fabric (or leather) coupling that was fitted as standard on all Minors! You should also find =another one on the back of the gearbox. Replacements are available. There is also a Hardy Spicer coupling modification for Minors if you don't want to use these original type couplings, although most Minors still use them.

[gubben]

Leaf springs removed and under inspection
After removing the front and rear leaf springs it was time for inspection. As expected all spring eyes was worn. Not beyond possibility to repair but they need action. The medicine here is to drill them up and find a suitable bushings. New bolts are also necessary.

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... ection.jpg
http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... g-eyes.jpg

At a first glance the front springs seemed a bit “tired” but after cleaning and lubrication they regained its former vigor. The rear spring were in this area really good. Insted I found some marks and injuries on the bottom leaf. I think it is the clamp bolts that had accomplished this injuries. I´ll better consult my forum friends if this is something that I have to reapair.

http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.co ... -bolts.jpg

[gubben]

Spring shackles badly worn
You kan clearly see the “groves” in the fixture. I intend to fill it out with weld and then grind it down to a smooth surface. I have seen that it’s possible to buy new ones but with som simple welding and grinding they will become better than new (I hope!).

The sping shackles are badly worn.jpg (319.72 KiB) Viewed 9556 times

Yet, the work is slowly progressing. Next milestone is to get the car back on it’s own wheels. A buch of new parts from Ian Harris have already arrived such as kin pins, bushings, brake cables a.s.o. And a new delivery is on it´s way. Mainly more parts for the suspension and brake parts. Wheel bearings was both cheep and simple – standard sealed SKF will do excellent. By using sealed bearings I don´t need any other sealing to protect the brake shoes from grease and oil.

But the wheels needs a lot of attention. Cleaning of corse but also some welding and grinding. A tricky job that puts all my welding knowledge to a real test. Not to mention grinding skill... hm!

Rusty wheel rim being replaced.jpg (360.24 KiB) Viewed 9556 times