Vintage Minor Register

Thanks Ian - will go and check that grub screw. Back to the King Pins; which way up does the washer go cross/grooves/grease ways = up?? Should the pin be flush with the top of the upper casting? or should it protrude above? (so that a washer/grease cover can be fitted to top of pin/below swinging br...

Thanks Ian - last few engine bits should arrive this week, should be able to start to build the engine this weekend if I can remember where everything goes and manage to currectly cut all of the paper gaskets. Are there any good engine assemby drawing available on the Internet? Any Torque settings a...

Oil Pump experts required! should there be a washer in between the drive gear and the casting? Currently have a movement of approx 2mm, although when assembled the oil pump gears would be held down by the cover plate which would prevent movement?

Thanks Ian - UNDER it is, you confirmed what I thought originally, but when I checked the Washer was ABOVE on both sides - I then convinced myself that that was sensible; but good job that I checked! - tremendous value this technology enabled Community of Interest/Social Networking bit!

slight change of plan - the door skin is quite strong and is holding its shape so I have stripped one door down and removed the frame. I have enough points of reference from the old timbers to make new ones, except for the window frame. How does the window slide in the door frame? Should there be a ...

The new King Pin and bushes have arrived and I have removed the King Pin from the drivers side. Currently the 'washer' is positioned above the stub axle+ below the top bush. That looks to make sense so will re-assemble in that position. Have got a 5/8" parallel, long reamer and a 19/32" --...

Hi Ian - I think that my current plan is to repair the bottom of the door skins before I loose the shape. Brace the outside of the skin to a wooden backboard before I unpick the sides of the steel 'angles' that encase the ash structure (currently a lot of frame looks comprise plywood repairs). Will ...

thanks Both - I removed the shim between the end plate and the box; found that things were too tight so put it back. I managed to loose one ball bearing from the top race, but works well on 29 balls; sure that they always throw one in for luck! There is some play between the shaft and housing, will ...

I am about to remove and replace my SV King Pins (pulley on top - off-set pulley pivot towards the chassis - cotter chassis side). Any advice? - picked up the fit from top; drive down fully + remember to drill oil holes. Anything else I should take care with before I get the hammer out? reaming bush...

I must stop taking things to bits! - thought there was a bit of play on the steering box (output shaft) - dismantled it; no bushes to replace, and it does not appear too bad. Any hints/tips/advice on set-up + re-assembly? steering box.jpg Also planning to have a look at the ball joints; any do's or ...

thanks both - I think you have convinced me that the sprung back rest has nothing to do with the saloon {it does have a 'set' in the base frame that probably is so that it could bridge some obstruction in the central area - might support the 2-Seater theory} Re: the UK snow; yes causing chaos in the...

Thanks Peter - that was what I was looking for. The dimensions suggest a seat base 4" thick. I thought about fitting the sprung back rest to the backboard that I made, but I think that the 'thick' backrest would move the passenger + seat base too far forward { if the seat base is 17" [fron...

Thanks Peter - I did wonder if I had two different back cushions - the sprung frame does appear to 'taper', as I would expect a seat base to do; higher at the front and lower at the rear - have you come across any good internal photoS? - Somewhere I have seen a diagram showing the leg room + seat po...

Thanks Ian - should be able to assemble bearings and brakes now. I have offered-up the back seat base every which way that I can see might be possible - I can 'force' it into position as in the photos but it does overhang the cross member that I assume would form/line up with, the front of the seat....

The brake shoes have badly worn steel end plates/shoes. Any advice on replacement/repair? I could build up with weld but the heat would probably spoil the alloy shoes?