Sorry about the list, just I'm away from RT for a couple of weekends so I'm going through in my mind what I need to get, to get on with it.
Threads. Does anyone know if a M8 bolt will fit in the hole a 1/4"W bolt came out of? I'm finding it nigh on impossible to find 1/4"W castle nuts on the internet, but I can find plenty of M8 ones. The are for the prop shaft by the way. I assume that it had castle nuts rather than lock nuts originally?
How bigger job is it to replace a half shaft and is there anything I ought to watch out for? One of them has been broken and brazed at some point, but we have a spare and would like to fit it.
On the combined ignition switch/light switch there are four settings 1, 2, side and head. I'm assuming the side and head are side and head lamps but what are the one and two for?
In the switch is there a terminal that is always live when the ignition is turned on, as I need somewhere to wire the brake lights up to. there is already a switch mounted by the brake pedal, although I am looking at these banjo bolts with a pressure switch built in, a much better idea in my opinion, I'm assuming the current switch isn't original as I'm told they didn't have brake lights fitted originally.
Thanks
Andrew
A few questions
Moderators: Ian Grace, Will Grace
Re: A few questions
Hi Andrew,
I looked up 1/4" BSW and M8 threads and it looks like they may not be interchangeable. Where do you need to use 1/4" Whit bolts?
Re the half shaft, this should be an easy job. Remove the wheel, remove the three screws securing the brake drum and remove it - then the hub and half shaft assembly should slide out. You'll probably need to break the paper seal between the two hub halves - gently tap a wood chisel between the two if need be. You might also want to make a new paper gasket before reasembling. Whle the half shaft is out, you can check to see if there are any cork seals in the axle casing just in behind the hub. These were an aftermarket mod. designed to keep the rear axle oil from reaching the brake shoes. Mike Dowley (01939/210458) has new seals if you need them - which you almost certainly will. (They have spiral inner grooves, and are handed - so you need to fit them on the correct sides, or they will pump oil into the brakes!)
On the ignition switch, 1 and 2 refer to summer and winter charge rates - half charge for summer. There is a resistor in the dynamo circuit that gets switched in and out by the 1 and 2 positions on the ignition switch.
You are correct - these cars never had brake lights, but many were modified like yours - not a bad thing in modern traffic where hand signals simply confuse most following drivers!
Hope this helps.
I looked up 1/4" BSW and M8 threads and it looks like they may not be interchangeable. Where do you need to use 1/4" Whit bolts?
Re the half shaft, this should be an easy job. Remove the wheel, remove the three screws securing the brake drum and remove it - then the hub and half shaft assembly should slide out. You'll probably need to break the paper seal between the two hub halves - gently tap a wood chisel between the two if need be. You might also want to make a new paper gasket before reasembling. Whle the half shaft is out, you can check to see if there are any cork seals in the axle casing just in behind the hub. These were an aftermarket mod. designed to keep the rear axle oil from reaching the brake shoes. Mike Dowley (01939/210458) has new seals if you need them - which you almost certainly will. (They have spiral inner grooves, and are handed - so you need to fit them on the correct sides, or they will pump oil into the brakes!)
On the ignition switch, 1 and 2 refer to summer and winter charge rates - half charge for summer. There is a resistor in the dynamo circuit that gets switched in and out by the 1 and 2 positions on the ignition switch.
You are correct - these cars never had brake lights, but many were modified like yours - not a bad thing in modern traffic where hand signals simply confuse most following drivers!
Hope this helps.
Re: A few questions
I'm not too worried about the actual thread, just the OD being the same. They would be for bolting the prop shaft onto the fibre couplings, there aren't any bolts on it at the moment. That is the problem with something that has been disassembled for so many years!Ian Grace wrote:Hi Andrew,
I looked up 1/4" BSW and M8 threads and it looks like they may not be interchangeable. Where do you need to use 1/4" Whit bolts?
Goody goody, I'll do that when I get a chance.Ian Grace wrote: Re the half shaft, this should be an easy job. Remove the wheel, remove the three screws securing the brake drum and remove it - then the hub and half shaft assembly should slide out. You'll probably need to break the paper seal between the two hub halves - gently tap a wood chisel between the two if need be. You might also want to make a new paper gasket before reasembling. Whle the half shaft is out, you can check to see if there are any cork seals in the axle casing just in behind the hub. These were an aftermarket mod. designed to keep the rear axle oil from reaching the brake shoes. Mike Dowley (01939/210458) has new seals if you need them - which you almost certainly will. (They have spiral inner grooves, and are handed - so you need to fit them on the correct sides, or they will pump oil into the brakes!)
Ok, thought that could be the case, just wanted to check to avoid breaking something!Ian Grace wrote: On the ignition switch, 1 and 2 refer to summer and winter charge rates - half charge for summer. There is a resistor in the dynamo circuit that gets switched in and out by the 1 and 2 positions on the ignition switch.
Are brake lights not a legal requirement then?Ian Grace wrote: You are correct - these cars never had brake lights, but many were modified like yours - not a bad thing in modern traffic where hand signals simply confuse most following drivers!
Thanks for the help, I want to start ordering bits so I can have a couple of weekends run at it. I think I've got a banjo bolt, so should soon have it moving under its own power!!!!
Andrew
Re: A few questions
[/quote]
Are brake lights not a legal requirement then?[/quote]
Nope - Grandfather rights - if it didn't have them originally, it doesn't need them. I think there is a pre-1960 get-out in there somwhere too - or some such date. Same goes for dipping headlapms, indicator lamps, black and white number plates, seatbelts, etc. The exception is that you need two tail lamps, where your car was only fitted with one. The other gotcha is - if your car is fitted with any of the above, it/they must be in working order.
Are brake lights not a legal requirement then?[/quote]
Nope - Grandfather rights - if it didn't have them originally, it doesn't need them. I think there is a pre-1960 get-out in there somwhere too - or some such date. Same goes for dipping headlapms, indicator lamps, black and white number plates, seatbelts, etc. The exception is that you need two tail lamps, where your car was only fitted with one. The other gotcha is - if your car is fitted with any of the above, it/they must be in working order.
Re: A few questions
Ah, Ok the original tail lamps have been replaced with combined brake and tail lamps, though they look alright, quite in keeping with the car. I'll have to modify the wiring loom as someone (DAD!!!!!) has used a Morris 8 wiring loom so there are some slight diffrences.
Re: A few questions
I don't think I'm too far away from having it on the road. I've drawn up the list and it only has 8 points!!!
Re: A few questions
There are extra holes in the halfshaft flange. Screw one of the brake-drum screws into them to split the hub. You can make a new paper gasket by holding the shaft in a vice - put the paper over it and tap round it with a hammer using the ball end for the holes. Sometimes the seals that S+V supply (now plastic) to go inside the casing need fixing in with Aradite or similar because not all casings are the same size inside. You need to put them in and then insert the shaft to make sure they are centred while it sets. (Before it sets!) They certainly do work.
Cheers,
Ian
Cheers,
Ian