JF 4238 1933 Minor Saloon

[Jpallis001]

Thanks again Peter - my car originally just had sections of 'Vee' belt nailed on. I then came across the rubber that I was assured was the correct section - I think that I will just reduce the width of the rubber that I have and use it.

John

[Jpallis001]

Hope to get Wings sprayed this week. I am starting to think about how the glass (which I do not currently have - I will be pestering local glaziers this week) is fitted. I have the thin flat rubber that I gather is 'folded' into a 'U' shape around the glass before it is fitted into the frames. Should I use a mastic/silicon as well? Does the laminated glass that I get have to have something etched into it to show that it is laminated?

When the long chrome piece is screwed to the top of the front windscreen frame, should I use a mastic/sealant/silicon?

What thickness is/(should be) the hardwood wood framing pieces that hold the glass into the frames? - is anyone able to point me to any images that might help me make patterns for these pieces? what type of wood would have been used originally?

John

[Jpallis001]

ran out of paint again! wing spraying on hold - started to look at headlamps. Is there a 'technique' to fitting the headlamp rims? I bought a pair of new chrome rims from Gideon Booth last year. Just tried to fit them; no luck - was able to get the inner rim to fit over the three 'lugs' but the bottom was a long way from a fit. Assumed that they were the wrong size and attempted to fit the originals - same problem! - any advice?

[Jpallis001]

I am starting to think about fitting the rear window and the rear side windows. Can anyone point me towards any photos that show the interior woodwork?

[peterb]

A few misc. windows.

[Jpallis001]

Thanks Peter - It looks like you have pre-formed window seals on yours - I think that the glass on mine is fitted with a flat rubber strip, wrapped to form a 'U' around the glass edge. I think that the glass/seal is then held against the outer frame with hardwood strips. It is those strips that I am trying to make. I can see how I can make the strips so that they form a frame around the window but not sure what the frame should look like.

thanks again for your photos; I have just made the dashboard brackets from the photo that you sent me some time back and am currently, in the sun shine, making templates for the floor boards while I wait for more paint to arrive this afternoon. It took me all day yesterday to design/make the floor supports - I think that I have got the angle right (ish) - but not a lot of distance between pedal and floor!

John

[Jpallis001]

managed to get the floorboards fitted but having difficulty working out how the 'transmission tunnel' fits? (is it the right one?) and what happens after the starter switch, should I have a second part to the 'tunnel' to close off the rear of the starter switch?

How much of a gap do I need to leave between the floor boards and the gearbox? (movement?) With the floor as I have it at the moment it looks like I can have approx 3" movement on the clutch pedal and 5" on the brake pedal - does that make sense?

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[halbe]

Hello John,

It looks to me that you have a late (four speed?) gearbox and the cover for the early three speed one.
If you want i can make some pictures of my early three speed floor. Do you still need pictures of the windows ?
Restoration looks great !

Regards,
Halbe

[Jpallis001]

Hi Halbe - yes please for the photos of the interior window framing. I have had another look at the transmission tunnel and decided that if I turned round the bracket on the starter switch; cut a section out of the tunnel to accomodate the handbrake; and mounted the resulting 'tunnel' to the lower floor, I would have something that would cover the coupling and gearbox. Would quite like to find out what a proper one looks like. Hope to get wings and bonnet back on tomorrow.

John

[Ian Grace]

Hello John,

The front floorboards are always a bit of a game to get fitting well. Looking at the driver's floorboard, you'll obviously need as hole for the throttle pedal, as well as one for the hand throtttle. You'll also probably need to open out the U-slot for the steering column to accommodate the hand throttle rod. Sod's Law states that once you make these holes and fit the board, the controls won't be concentric with the holes. From experience and frustration, I have learned that it is simply not possible to get all this right first time, so I make a trial board first out of any gash 1/2" ply, fit it, note and measure the positional errors carefully, then make the finished board which has a far better chance of fitting neatly. It is more work, but pays off in terms of satisfaction with a job well done.

The middle angled board is made of 1/4" ply (as opposed to 1/2") for the rest. And this should have a slot at the top for the speedometer cable. I can privide a photo or pattern if you like.

As for the prop shaft tunnel you have, this looks like one from an OHC car, the shallow rectangular cut-out at the forward edge accomodates the rear of the angled braket on the OHC cars that takes the starter button.

[Jpallis001]

Thanks Ian - I was wondering how the speedo cable got back into the car! I would be interested in some rough measurements that would help me to decide where to drill this hole.

Certainly has taken longer that I had thought to make brackets and floor boards. Have drilled a centre hole for the accelerator pedal. Do folks drill a large hole that lets the head of the pedal pass through the board, or do they drill a hole for the shaft + fit pedal after board has been fitted?

Intend to rout out a hole + make panel to provide access to gearbox filler.

[Ian Grace]

The throttle pedal hole is smaller than the head, but you need to check that the side of the pedal stem doesn't foul the side of the hole over the full range of pedal movement. Hence the need to line it up carefully and also set the pedal angle carrefully where it clamps to the cast arm attached to the cross-rod. I will let you know the correct diameter of the hole and also the slot for the speedometer cable in the middle board.

[halbe]

Hello John,

Hope this helps. Remember that this is the 1929 version so could be different from your car.







Regards,
Halbe

[Jpallis001]

Thanks Halbe - I think mine is quite a lot different. I have seen somewhere a photo that shows wooden frames/surrounds that fit round the rear + side windows. I think that these framing pieces also hold the headlining. I will mock something up and post a photo for advice.

Put the newly painted wings out into the sun today to 'bake'. Trial fitted the doors, did a bit of fettling and sprayed on another two coats of paint - think I have decided not to put anymore paint on the doors so I can now start to build them up. Need to pop to the glazier for the last piece of glass for the door and need to make a channel to fit to the bottom of the door window and the lifting mechanism.

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Anyone able to help me with photos that show what the three missing 'catches' from the door pillar should look like?

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[Jpallis001]

Sunny Saturday allowed me to spray + 'bake' the doors (26 degrees!); clear out the garage after spraying; fit split pins to everything that should have split pins; grease 19 nipples (have I missed some?) and set the tracking. Surprising, with 19" wheels, what effect a fraction of a turn on the track rod has.

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Managed, with a lot of fettling to get the front wings fitted. I did think that I had been careful to retain the position of the holes that attach the wing to the wing bracket. I fitted the bracket to the wings before I sprayed them. Had to remove them several times before they looked anything like.

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