Yes, it should be further back, so the cable makes about a 45 degree angle to the cable. I think you are trying to attach it at the holes that should take the front wing stays. Hopefully, you will find holes in the right place - I can't think why not - unless the original holes have been welded up at some time?
Re the pulley on the kingpin, this should consist of two plates with a pin joining them and riveted over (or welding is OK), with just enough space for the pulley to run freely between the plates. I think that is what you are asking!
Here's the general layout - this is actually the later type of OHC Minor brakes, from chassis M 29528, but the geometry is very similar to that of the SV car - the only significant difference beiing the sturdiness of the chassis bracket.
I require a little more brain power for this task - I was trying to fix it to the Mud Guard holes! strange how the four holes actually line up with those in the bracket, Mr Morris must be deliberately trying to confuse me!
Front Cable Run 2.jpg (64.16 KiB) Viewed 2547 times
There are two holes to the right of this grouping that would provide the 45 degree cable run, if the bracket is inverted such that the pulley 'hangs' below the angle of the bracket? If I assemble it in this fashion the pulley on the trunion is 'low' resulting in a poor cable run; or is this because there is no load on the suspension? as the chassis is loaded the two pulleys might line up?
As the suspension rises and falls does it not result in the brakes being applied?
I'm trawling through the archives looking for pics that might help. Here's a period one. It shows the orientation of the chassis bracket, plus the approximate location on the chassis. Looking at this, it appears that you have the bracket in the correct location?
Comparing this image with the drawing in my previous post - which shows the late OHC arrangement, it certainly looks like the chassis bracket on the SV car is mounted further forward than on the OHC car.
Here;s another one. It's a dreadfully poor pic of my McEvoy (also 1933, so should be identical to your car), but it does show that brake cable bracket and the front wing stay are co-located with the same bolts.
fitted the brake cam bushes + refurbished shaft of the brake cam. Working on the front and rear wheel bearings. Bought new rear bearing, front look OK.
The front bearing have leather 'oil seals' - do they work? Do I just turn them round? or is there a better option? anything missing from the assembly
Front Bearings.jpg (42.19 KiB) Viewed 2483 times
the rear bearing had a felt oil seal but I propose to replace it with a new 'plastic' seal. It is a bit thicker - but will try to work on it a bit. one side included a home-made spacer. from some earlier posts I assume that I need to pack the bearing with spacers so that it cannot move inside the housing? Are there any diagrams that show the assembly?
Front hubs. There is a felt seal fitted with a beveled steel ring slipped on to the stub axle before the hub is fitted. Then there is a brass cap with integral greaser that fits under the stub axle nut - as in your image. This has a smaller felt seal fitted - not leather. Make sure you fit the stub axles on the correct sides - the hub nuts have handed threads - left-hand on the left side.
Rear hubs. Again, there is a felt seal behind the bearing - it should sit in a pressed steel carrier. Tighten the hub retaining ring nut until the hub still turns but is slightly stiff because of the compression of the felt seals. The seals should be soaked in oil before fitting. Front and rear hub felt seals available from Mike Dowley, but not the small one that fits insode the front hub brass greaser cap. You also need to get a pair of rear axle helical oil retainers from Mike and fit them to the rear axle casing before offering up the half shafts.
I think that the rear hub nut should be FULLY tightened to lock the bearing in position on the axle casing, if it is left not tight enough the bearing can move/spin on the casing and cause damage!
You are right Trevor. I think we discussed this on a previous thread a few months ago. I can never remember if it locks up tight or not, but you are right - it does.
The car is currently blue/black - the bits of upolstery is green; the colour of the vehicle is not mentioned on the Heritage certificate; I cannot track down the logbook; when I grind through the blue paint I get metal (no undercoat? no 'original' colour).
If I keep it Blue (all blue) I should try to find some Brown Karhyde - is there a shade of brown I should be looking for? any suggestions about possible suppliers?
I think, from my reading of other threads, that the shade of 'blue' is not really defined anywhere?
Have managed to end up with an additional extra large felt washer and a 'drilled' washer/spacer - I assume I do not need them?
front bearings 2.jpg (54.08 KiB) Viewed 2382 times
The engine is on hold until I resolve a problem with the machining of the connecting rods - awaiting information from the machine-shop. Started to sort out the seats, discivered that one fron seat had a 'square' from cushion while the other had a 'less square' cushion. Used a few coil springs from a 1950's Morris Minor to replace the broken springs, also used some of the steel rod to convert the 'rounded' cushion to 'square'.
front seats.jpg (102.83 KiB) Viewed 2384 times
I cannot see how the rear seat base actually fits in the car. Does anyone have the correct dimenson for the rear seat base?
The brake shoes have badly worn steel end plates/shoes. Any advice on replacement/repair? I could build up with weld but the heat would probably spoil the alloy shoes?
Looking at the top pic of your front hub, the 'spare' washer with six holes init is the earlier version of the brass cap with the integral greaser and felt seal. So I'd use the brass item and not the six-hole washer. The problem with these earlier washers was that there was noting preventing the grease from exiting the outer hub bearing and getting into the inside of the wheel. No big deal, but it does make the inside of the wheel messy, and the hub cap isn't the best method of retaining hub grease. I think your other felt washer is surplus to requirements as well - there should be one fitted before the hub and one in the brass washer thingy - that's all.
Re the indented shoes, you can switch the shoes around so that the brake cam washer acts on the other side of the steel cap when the brakes are pulled on. If all your shoes are only worn one end like the ones in your photo, you should be good to go. Just be aware that the steel rings that take the return springs are very slightly offset - so that the springs just clear the hubs. Be sure to make sure the springs aren't fouling the hubs before refitting the drums.
Thanks Ian - should be able to assemble bearings and brakes now.
I have offered-up the back seat base every which way that I can see might be possible - I can 'force' it into position as in the photos but it does overhang the cross member that I assume would form/line up with, the front of the seat.
rear seat base in car.jpg (157.39 KiB) Viewed 2351 times
rear seat base in car2.jpg (82.92 KiB) Viewed 2344 times
I cut the backrest of the rear seat from a rear backrest that came with the car. You will notice that there are 'cut-outs' at both bottom corners. In the few photos that I have seen of interiors, the rear wheel arch is visible with a fabric/leatherette covering. The panel that I have cut for the backrest would suggest that the wheel arch might be covered/boxed-in to form an arm rest?
On my 1934 4-door saloon the back seat base is not sprung. It has a pocket for either an air cushion or padding.
However the back of the rear seat has a sprung frame which looks very like the frame in your photo.
Thanks Peter - I did wonder if I had two different back cushions - the sprung frame does appear to 'taper', as I would expect a seat base to do; higher at the front and lower at the rear - have you come across any good internal photoS? - Somewhere I have seen a diagram showing the leg room + seat positions, an I think sizes. Unfortunately cannot find it when I want it!
