RT 8431

[Highlander]

Yes that is me in my younger days!!!!! Highlander (7 handicap at 75 years)

[Ian Grace]

Alister at Brooklands.

[Highlander]

An Irish Guardsman and a Cameron Highlander - what more could you ask for!!! Off to Dial Post for a VSCC Pint. Highlander.

[mowersman]

Right, A progress update.
The new battery should be delivered either Thursday or Friday, though they did say that three weeks ago and it never materialized. Once I have that I'll fit the remaining wiring.
I now have a prop shaft coupling, thanks to Chris Lambert for that. I have ordered M8 bolts and castle nuts as they fit nicely as well as the fact that 5/16 BSF castle nuts are very expensive.I hope to fit that Saturday along with the wiring.
The banjo bolt has been ordered and was hopefully picked up this afternoon... that will be fitted and the brakes bled on Sunday.
While I have been waiting for all these parts I have finished wiring the brake lights and tail lights as I couldn't work it out first time. the broken ash tray has been replace and other little jobs done.
One big thing I have to sort is the drivers seat. It has a "leveroll" system fitted. I have the notched lever but not anything for it to fix on, on the floor boards. If anyone has a leveroll system fitted and could take some pictures, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Andrew

[mowersman]

Right, A progress update.
The new battery should be delivered either Thursday or Friday, though they did say that three weeks ago and it never materialized.

Well still hasn't turned up...
But we now have loan of a battery for testing purposes!!!
To start with it wouldn't pump fuel but that is now sorted
If your fuel pump is reluctant to pump and won't "trip" easily then this could be your problem.
If you detach the main body, from the bit that bolts to the bulkhead (attached by six screws), the thick rubber diaphragm is visible. As you push this up, you will hear a click as it triggers the points. If you rotate the diaphragm it adjusts how easily the points are triggered. I think, if my memory serves me right, that you rotate the diaphragm clockwise to make it less reluctant to "trip", though don't hold me to that. I shall check sometime as I have another fuel pump to overhaul soon.

I blew out the fuel lines with a compressor, out came nearly 80 years of muck and rubbish. It really is amazing what cam accumulate in fuel lines, even though the fuel should have come straight form the pump.

The only thing stopping it from moving then was the fitting of the prop shaft. I assumed it would just slot in, but no!!!
The rear axle was unbolted, slid back and the prop shaft fitted. I drilled the holes for the split pins this morning, though I made a big mistake when I bought the new bolts. I bought STAINLESS . They were right little so and so's to drill but they are now fitted.

I've tried to sort the non charging problem with the dynamo, but no success yet. I've tried "flashing" the dynamo, with a wire from the positive terminal on the battery but still nothing. I think the dynamo is OK, as Dad thinks he had it reconditioned when he started on the car. The field and main coils are reading 2.3 and 1.1 ohms resistance respectively. Also I have tried connecting a bulb to the F and D terminals and the engine block, but nothing. Checked it with a multimeter and I'm getting between 0.05V and 0.2V!!! I'm still not sure whether the "flashing" should be done with the engine running or not?
But it did drive. Once I'd worked out which was reverse and which was first then all was fine. I only went half way down the drive as it was dark, the brakes desperately need bleeding and I only have one head light. This was the next big step for me, to get it drivable. It won't be long and it will be MOTable!!! The remaining "main" jobs are; Sort the brakes, weld or replace the exhaust manifold, Get the dynamo to charge, make new floors and find the front prop shaft cover. We know we have it, "somewhere"!!!
I hope I'm not boring you with these recounts, I hope they may be of use to someone...
Andrew

[Ian Grace]

Not that I agree with cutting up old Magazines, but this one might interest you Andrew!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Old-1932-Car-Advert ... 588b8b8e9c

[mowersman]

Looks like a late christmas prezzie...

[Ian Grace]

And nice to know you have an Art Deco car.

[mowersman]

Right, the dynamo is now working, in the fact that it lights and blows a bulb, but still no charge shown on the ammeter. I will check my wiring. Is there anything, apart from the fact it is all Lucas components, that could be causing this? (regulator fault?)
But...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6dVLXLCuNs
Now that I have the offer of a manifold, there is only the little things , such as the seat adjustment and some minor wiring issues to sort before it can be MOTed. What is supposed to happen when the headlights are dipped on these?
Andrew

[Toby]

you go off the road! My understanding is that you have to have modern arrangement of 2 full beam going to 2 dipped beam in order to pass the mot. Check contacts in switch and clean with electrical parts cleaner and cotton bud or lightly abrade, do the horn push as well, i thought i had a tired horn (oo er) but found the horn push needed a service!

[Ian Grace]

Isn't the headlamp dipping only an MoT requirement if originally fitted? Not sure if the Sports Coupe had dipping headlamps originally, but I would think if you had non-diping headlamps fitted, what garage mechanic is going to know the original equipment on a 1932 Morris Minor Sports Coupe.

[mowersman]

Ok, thats not what I was hoping to hear
Its just that the offside headlamp is very very dim, I was hoping that I had wired it incorrectly and that It was just dipped.
Oh well, another problem to sort...

[Ian Grace]

Andrew,

Probably a good idea to make sure it is well earthed. The original earth return was via the headlamp shell, through the wing to the chassis. Over the years, paint and rust can add plenty of resistance to the earth return path, and 6V systems like ours are particularly susceptible because twice the current is neded for the same output power (Power = IV Watts - so half the V needs twice the I!). When I fit lamps I always add a beefy earth wire and bolt it directly to the chassis which I scrape well first.

Ian

[Ronald]

If i were re-wiring my car, i'd run an earth from everything back to a central earth point.... ie, the battery!!!!!!

[mowersman]

To be honest I haven't really had time to look at it, the head lights were already connect at the headlight end, I just wired it to the dashboard. I will check the earth tomorrow, as well as my wiring. Trouble is, most of what I work on (vintage horticultural tractors) don't have much in the way of electrics!
Thanks
Andrew