VG 3260

[DF9053]

Mike,

The Bowden converstion as with later M types works well, but there are people out there with the original brake layout on their cars, as Ian will not doubt confirm. On the Minor it is difficult to get the full value from the Bowden cables as the mid mounting point is too high to get a good pull on the cable. The original cables ran to the axle staying much lower and acheiving a better pull line.

I have an unused set of club made pins, and pullies, I am happy to make these available at the original cost if you are interested. My Minor was on Bowden calbles and now I have an early M type with rods!

They will need the cotter slot grinding on the right side, again Ian can fill in the details/reasons!

Cheers
Jeremy

[Ian Grace]

Mike,

Of course, if there is a set of original parts available, then that alters the equation somewhat! My Semi-sports has the original cables and pulleys, and works fine.

Ian

[mike houston]

Dear fellow Forumists,
I thought that a general update might be due. I was due to collect the shotblasted chassis today, and when I did I had both good and bad news. The rear three quarters of the chassis were very good, and looked good in the weld-through grey primer, but the front radiator supporting x-member and a small part of the O/S chassis were slightly perforated. So I took a diversion on the way home and dropped the chassis off at a local bodyshop (of the old-fashioned variety), to affect the repairs. In the meantime I have started work on refurbing both axles. Generally everything is in good order, and my suspicion that the car was rebuilt in the 60s is heightened by what appear to be non-standard mods to the back axle. Hopefully the two pictures I am posting are clear enough, but the diff appears to be a 8/43 version, (because that's what's stamped on the housing!) and the axle tubes appears to have what I think are described as 'modern' oil seals. Just to compound matters there is a peculiar screwed fitment on the top of the housing with a hole in the centre, (maybe for a dipstick?) Could someone tell me what I have got here please?
I will post some more pics when the chassis is progressing.
Regards to all, Mike.

[Ian Grace]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the update and pics. Glad to hear that the chassis frame is getting some deserved TLC.

Re your questions, the leather (I think) 'seals' in your back axle casing are original. At least, I have always found them to be present on the axles I have rebuilt.

Re the fitting on your diff. This is for a dipstick, and there should be a small double-side spring clip attached to the top which secured the stick in place - looks like it might be missing on yours, along with the stick! There seems to be endless permutations of diff casings, compounded by the fact that there are diffs from other cars that fit Minors and many have found their way onto Minors over the years. My thinking is that this is a later diff., as your car should not have a dipstick feature. However, you will never notice at 50 mph, so I wouldn't worry about it - other than to bung up the dipstick hole!

[halbe]

Hello Mike,

I also have the leather seals in my backaxle!
Do we have take them out or leave them in place?
I also intend to put some new seals into the end of both axle tubes.

Nice pictures and good to see so much progress on your car

Regards,
Halbe

[mike houston]

Hallo Halbe!

I guess the seals remain if in good condition, they seem to be riveted in anyway. LIke you I intend to add any other seals that are available. It does appear to be a bit of a weak spot in the design. Perhaps someone can step in and tell us which extra seals are best? Thanks for your comments, I will add some more pictures when there is progress to report on the chassis. I have taken a lot of inspiration on my rebuild from your pictures, keep them coming! I doubt I will get into my garage today, the temperature is freezing and outside there is nearly a foot of snow!

Regards,
Mike.

[Ronald]

I wonder if it'd be possible to find some sort of sheet neoprene or similar and effectively make new seals that would be a slightly tighter fit around the halfshafts......... the other option, is to find somone like a saddle maker and see if they have some leather for some new 'old' seals....

[DF9053]

These seals are easy to get out, they are on top hat section steel that is tapped into the end of the axle shaft.

You have to take care when re-fitting the half shalft not to knock them out by accident.

Cheers
Jeremy

[Toby]

Simon has also posted details of a modern rubber lipped seal that can be fitted at the brake drum end of the axle, instead of or in conjunction with the new nylon bushes that are available. No machining is necessary. I think it's under technical on my posting about hubs.

[mike houston]

I thought that I would post a progress picture, just to show that the cold weather has not forced me into total hibernation! The chassis has been blasted, primed and repaired and I am just fettling it prior to painting and reassembly. I have just ordered my first batch of new parts, mostly gaskets and seals from Sports and Vintage which at least gives me a good feeling of moving in the right direction. I am currently wrestling with the springs, and wondering if I will ever be able to move the threaded screws between the top and bottom plates! Are new ones available if I end up cutting through them? Incidentally I notice that the blasting has revealed a few numbers in different places, apart from the obvious chassis number on the front dumb iron. On the other dumb iron is the letter S, which I know the significance of, but next to it is a number which I presume to be a part number. Similarly there is a number on the steering bracket, again I assume it to be a part number. Am I correct? Anyway it is nice to have the milder weather, although the Minor will soon have to compete for my attention with the garden! I know where I would rather be, but the boss might have other ideas!!

Regards to all, Mike.

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[mike houston]

Progress is being made! So I thought that it was time to post another progress report. I am gradually building the chassis back up, and hope to have it rolling again by the month end. I had a setback with the springs. Having spent a long time cleaning and derusting them, (and taping two of them), I decided to trial fit them, (which of course I should have done to start with!) The front springs were set about right, but one sagged an inch lower than the other! The rear ones seemed to curve too much, so I checked the measurements against those given in the Blower extract, and found they were out vertically by about an inch. To cut a long story short it took two trips to Brost Forge, (a 95 mile round trip and a big hole in my wallet), to get them to the right dimensions. I have rebushed the front hubs but now need a local engineer to ream them out for the pins. Otherwise it's all going well! One of my (many) next jobs is to start screwing parts back onto the firewall. I might even soon start looking at the body, which hasn't improved by sitting there! Anyway I hope to spend some of Easter in the garage, but I hope that those that read this have a pleasant holiday break,
Regards to all,
Mike.

[Ian Grace]

Mike, that is significant progress in two months - well done and keep it up!

Ian

[mike houston]

Ian,
Just a quick update, the pictures should really convey what has happened. Diff back on and half-shafts in place. I do find the felt oil seals a bit puzzling as they cause quite a drag on the hub, and the initial effect must be like applying the brakes, but I guess they bed in. I hope they don't smoulder first! Otherwise steady progress and I am currently considering how best to scour out 25 years of gunk from the petrol tank, and then whether to use some of that sealant stuff. I've seen mixed reports about about it, and think that it might be best to initially run the car with a large fuel filter!
Regards to all,
Mike.

[Ian Grace]

Hi Mike,

Looking great!

Can someone confirm (or deny) that the felt seals should be soaked in oil before fitting? Not so much so that it oozes onto the brakes when fitted of course, but presumably to avoid them bursting into flames with all that horsepower flowing through them!

As for the fuel tank, it the past I have got as much gunk out of a tank as possible and then fitted a small clear plastic in-line fuel filter to catch what I missed. This also lets you see how much gunk is actually coming out of thew tank - better than c hecking the bottom of the filter bowl! When it starts to run clean, just delete the filter, or leave it in - depending on taste. My Semi-sports has one fitted right now - it has done about 500 miles and looks clean.

[halbe]

Hello,

I always place the felt seals in oil for about 1 day before fitting them.
Also the inline fuel filter is a good idea, I use them on the Aston and after 20 years of use they still get dirty.
They are cheap and a great solution, I haven't looked yet where to hide it but will fit one to VG in due time.
Regards,
Halbe