Rear Axle.

[Ian Grace]

Not that I am aware of - I'm getting e-mails from him. He moves Dec 14th.

[Toby]

Am here briefly! Diffs appear to be 8s, one minor one in axle but appears to have serious play in and out. Will take with me and try and ring you Monday, Allister

[Highlander]

Thank you Toby for handing over Ian's spare diff cage. Also thanks for the tea and coffee. Home safe and sound and have the diff on the banch and have had a good look at it. To everyone in on this axle problem remember my 1933 Minor has a later axle (dip stick!!) The axle are side by side and look the same (?) The 'new' axle has a heavier casing - iron, mine is aly. Crown wheel bearing caps are iron, mine are aly. These caps are held by bolts nor castlated nuts. Both cases have 8/43 stamped o0n them. 8.43 stamped on both diff cases (inside) All rough measurements take from both axles are the same. The one big difference in the spider ends. Mine had three fingers the new one has a square plate with four holes in the corners - when I took the square one off the 'bearing', solid steel which enters the pinion nose is larger than my one (this could be bushed no problem) All crownwheel teeth look perfect (two ti9ny chips on edge), The pinion teeth look OK (peering in with torch!!) There does not seem to be any play anywhere. Once cleaned - can I fit this straight into my minor? I am guessing but if my axle is a late minor or very early 8, this could be middle to late 8. I await, with interst, all the replies saying just put it straight in!!!!. As an aside - today in Surrey and Hampshire was a cold but sunny day - Aberdeenshire one foot of snow!!! Highlander. PS Whilst on line - thank you Ian for this offer of one of your diff cages - I do hope it will fit. The half shafts fit. Any snow in USA? Alister.

[Ian Grace]

Hi Alister,

I hope that between your bits and mine, you end up with a complete and decent diff!

Temterature in Seattle is a bamly 50 degrees - only had two monrings of frost. Unlike Michigan which is deep in snow already. Once my cars get here, I should be able to work on the the year round. In Michigan I was lucky to get a few comfortable weeks in the spring and a few more in the autumn. Far too cold even in the garage in the winter (November to April), and far too hot and humid (and far too many mosquitos) in the summer.

Ian

[Simon]

Hi Alister,

It sounds as if you have got a Morris 8 or series E 8 diff unit. You can swap the four holed flange for the three legged spider that was on the old diff unit. Do not be tempted to swap the end covers, with four holes, over as well to get rid of the gap round the spider without checking that the outer of the ball race is securely clamped. I know from experience from the Jensen's diff that it does not work as it leaves the ball race with about 40 thou of end float. The solution is quite simple. What I did was to machine the four holed end cover to suit a modern neoprene oilseal. This has the great advantage that the scroll is removed which prevent the diff ejecting its oil when going in reverse. At the same time you must ensure that the breather hole at the top of the back cover plate to the diff is not blocked with paint/rust etc. If you do not need this in a hurry I could do this for you after I have sorted out a problem with the lathe.

[Highlander]

Chris, Thank you for your reply and information. I am not in any great hurry but I dont like being minorless. Why not come over and have a look at what I have got and see what you think. I am not good at explaining engineering . I mentioned my problems on an E.mail type blogg from the old Morris Register, they all seem to own later Morris 8s. It would appear that I can just swap diffs over. They say the 'iron' casing is much stronger and 'better'!? <Looks like another icey day tomorrow. PS There could be a pint in it Chris!!!! Highlander.

[Toby]

While we're at it, Simon, do you have the No. for the oil seal that fits the axle/halfshaft, we discussed it at the hatchgate and I have some works to do on PJ in the new year. Toby

[Highlander]

Simon - Whisky will be my downfall!!! I am sorry I put Chris on my reply and of course it should have been you living locally. Offer still on. Highlander.

[Simon]

Toby,

Axle tube oil seals. Brammer catalogue No. NBR 125 100 25 AS - od 1.25", id 1.00" w 0.25" with dust seal.
Available from :-

Marksman Industrial Ltd
Aldershot 01252 345455

Fitting.

Remove old cork/PTFE seal and clean inside of axle tube. Insert the new seal with dust seal facing outwards using a drift or socket that JUST fits inside the axle tube about an inch and a half to ensure that it is clear of the splines on the half shaft when it is replaced. If necessary clean up the half shaft with emery paper where the seal will be and remove any sharp edges on the diff end of the shaft and lubricate the seal well before inserting the half shaft. [For you Toby the words grandmother and eggs comes to mind but for others it might be usefull information]

Do not be tempted to try to remove the dowel pin that can be felt inside the axle tube or the axle may come apart !!

[Highlander]

Simon - HELP!!!Forget a dram there is a bottle of Black Grouse waiting to be shared!!!!! I have today taken a look at the propshaft end of the diff cage I have been given. You were right of course!!!! My three pronged spider does not have the same dimensions as the four holed flat flange on the iron cage i.e. My 3 prong shoulder is one and a quarter inches across and five eighth deep whilst the square flange shoulder is one and three eights across and one inch deep. I had hoped to sleeve the difference but it is not easy. I have a question to everyone - in the spare parts book from Sports and vintage there is a blown up page of an MG axle (same as a minor) and this has three flanges. 1. 6 hole round. 2. 4 hole square and 3 my.- three pronged spider.- all three have the SAME shoulder. Is this artistic licence? - or did later Minor or Morris eigths have a different spider? Has anyone a spider with a shoulder 1and 3/8th across and 1" deep? I could then just change flanges over and not disturb the pinion housing at all. I( have had one bit of luck today. I took the Hub containing the three wheel bolts off the axle. As I told you earlier one stud was broken and came off with its nut. On the bench I took the nut off the broken stud and looked what to do next. There was a lot of thread left so I threaded it back into the hub and found that all that was "broken was nthe preened over end!Cleaned it all up and lock tight it back. The other two studs were loose as well so tightened up and preened over and all is well. Is this common? If so tell the boys as it could be over looked. Will I be on the road for Christmas? Answers please to above. Highlander.

[ian judd]

Sounds like you have the late Morris 8 type. If you have to use your spider ( and they don't come any bigger ) then you will have to sleeve the spider rather than the housing because the housing has the oil return thread. Possibly you could just Aradite a piece of tubing on the spider. Or you could fit a modern oil seal in if you machine it out a bit more.

Ian

[Highlander]

Ian, I think you are right my diff cage is 8hp. I was thinking I could sleeve the shoulder to fit the 'hole' but I dont think it is that simple. The difference between my 5/8th length and the iron 1" length is the 1" butts up against the thrust bearing and stops it moveing. I could get someone to turn a sleeve with an internal step which would butt up to the thrust bearing centre? Does this make sense? Simon knows about these things but I have not heard from him. Any comments? I have had answers from Jeff Taylor, morris register, who stated something has to be done. I had hoped that spiders came in two sizes but they dont. Could I put a washer/spacer the right size up against the thrust bearing and then the sleeve/shoulder could butt up against that? (3/8th thick)

[Ian Grace]

I feel a great article for Tech Topics taking shape here. Any offers to write one for M 133?

[Highlander]

Ian, Yes no problem but lets get on the road first!!!! I think sleeving the shoulder and incerting a 3/8th spacer behind the thrust bearing is the easy answer. I am finding it hard to understand all the trouble I am going through to get the axle 'just right' when before I spotted the trouble the minor went like a rocket with teeth missing from the pinion and crownwheel and no thrust bearing!!!!!!! I looked at the other wheel hub last night and all three wheel studs were loose and had to be re-preened. I will have to look at the front next! Will I ever be mobile again? Highlander

[Highlander]

I have started to rebuild tghe rear axle back into the minor. I had problems with the rear hub yesterday and put out a plea but I cannot find it!!! I took the bearings out and cleaned thema and re greased them. Very tight fit getting them back into the hubs and them would not turn freely. Took them out again and the same thing has happened. Two things - I do not think the hub is fully home on the axle shaft, one lock nut is only 3/4s on. Should it be flush with axle tube? Does the thick grease I am using stop the wheel spinning freely? Finally - My axle has been modernised and bodged. The inner part of the bearing that slides onto the axle shaft only seems to go 3/4 on! My question - My hydrolic brake conversion - did the brake shoes line up differ from hydrolic to cable, were bearings 'thinner' All this is not easy to discible. I will leave the axle today and try and get the diff in place and couple it up with the proshaft. Any comments please. Highlander.