sv brakes

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Toby
Posts: 1017
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 4:49 pm
Location: New Forest

sv brakes

Post by Toby »

Had a bit of trouble with the saloon which is fitted with the hydraulic brakes, having renewed everything else I'm now renewing the shoes but even with the adjusters backed off there is quite a bit of resistance from shoes binding, the new lining material is bonded as well as rivetted. Will this bed in if I take it for a short run and dab the brakes or should I take a bit off the foot of the shoe?! (Or something else!) Don't want the brakes to heat and burn on the way to the summer rally :cry: Luckily cleaning the drums and changing the shoes showed up a dented drum with a lump inside! So at least I've avoided wrecking the new shoes :D
if it's got wheels or chips - it'll cost you dear
Ian Grace
Site Admin
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Location: USA

Re: sv brakes

Post by Ian Grace »

Depends on how bad they are binding. If you can turn the wheel by hand when jacked off the ground, you're probably OK. I'd take it for a few runs of increasing length and feel the drums as you go - if you see what I mean...

After you have done this you could also take the drums off and see what the contact areas looks like - to be sure the linings are concentric with your drums. If there are just a few high spots causing the problem, you can file them down - assuming they are not made of asbestos!

Don't under any circumstances take metal off the shoes.
Toby
Posts: 1017
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 4:49 pm
Location: New Forest

Re: sv brakes

Post by Toby »

When I used to fix my everyday car (back in the days when you could and I had no money!) I seem to remember this happening and I just got on with it, but service parts were cheap and breakers yards yielded plenty of bits like drums! They are tight enough to require medium effort to turn and don't spin on their own, in fact when I trailer it to the engine guy tomorrow I suspect it will be hard to push, not the usual one handed push to roll :lol: The ability to move a car as if it were a go cart of your youth is very endearing. Thanks as ever for your advice.
if it's got wheels or chips - it'll cost you dear
DF9053
Posts: 231
Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:55 am
Location: Aberaeron, Wales

Re: sv brakes

Post by DF9053 »

Just a thought, is there some free play between the pedal and the master cylinder piston, if the piston does not come right to the front of the cylinder the bypass valve in the mastercylinder does not open leaving pressure in the hydraulic line this in turn would push the pistons in the wheel cylinders out putting the brakes on.

You have probably checked this but thought it worth mentioning just in case

cheers
Jeremy
Toby
Posts: 1017
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 4:49 pm
Location: New Forest

Re: sv brakes

Post by Toby »

Thanks, I havn't checked it but the brakes were not sticking before the new shoes and it's a brand new master so should be ok. Will check though. Car is in Somerset at present, managed to push it ok to load on to trailer so hope that a short spin as suggested by Ian will sort it when it's back in Reading, still have rears to do though. Early start with trailer this morning but M4 closed and whilst diverting to M3 via Basingstoke my Landrover bonnet flew up and off, thank God it didn't happen on a motorway or hit the minor or the cars behind:shock: took drivers wiper arm spindle and new aerial with it but bonnet no worse for it, b****y welder didn't shut it properly :evil:
if it's got wheels or chips - it'll cost you dear
DF9053
Posts: 231
Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:55 am
Location: Aberaeron, Wales

Re: sv brakes

Post by DF9053 »

I put a new master cylinder on the TC and the brake rod between the pedal and the piston needed quite a bit of adjustment, in fact I had to take 1/8 inch off it before it let the piston back properly, worth checking anyway.

The opening bonnet sounds dreadful, must have been horrific thank heavens now one was in the way

cheers
Jeremy
Toby
Posts: 1017
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 4:49 pm
Location: New Forest

Re: sv brakes

Post by Toby »

Brakes again! This time a massive oil leak, due to seals in wrong side of axle, has coated my tourers almost new aluminium brake shoes in EP140! Before I boil them in a pan with a dishwasher tablet can anyone come up with a good reason why I shouldn't!!! :D If all else fails, who did you recommend for brake linings, Ian?
if it's got wheels or chips - it'll cost you dear
Toby
Posts: 1017
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 4:49 pm
Location: New Forest

Re: sv brakes

Post by Toby »

PS worn wheel nuts, are the magna wheel nuts the same countersink/pitch as 8 and early minors? :?
if it's got wheels or chips - it'll cost you dear
Trevor Wilkinson
Posts: 161
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 4:44 pm
Location: Bedfordshire UK

Re: sv brakes

Post by Trevor Wilkinson »

Go for it Toby! After the same problem with my rear brakes I have boiled / simmered etc with many different washing / cleaning agents.
I also found the aerosol "brake cleaner" very effective.
Good luck
Highlander
Posts: 489
Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:52 am

Re: sv brakes

Post by Highlander »

Just a thought. Why was so much oil getting through to the brake linings? I only 3/4 fill my back axle with oil. Has anyone tried the old dodge via Alvis, Humber, Large Austins of drilling three holes on the underside of the axle casing through to the halfshafts so that surplus oil drains away before reaching the brakes? I do not know enough about minor axle cases - is it worth trying? Three holes either side of the diff.. Re wheel nuts - I have just purchased 6 from Harry Edweards which were tapered on both ends aand looked the same taper as on my original minor ones. They have fitted well (quite tight). Toby I am OK for the 3rd May. Will drum up support from this part of the world. I know this is not the blogg but with a lot of us looking for spare parts for our minors - who purchased all the minor spares at last years Hereford auction? There seemed like pages of spare parts. Was it one of us? Why buy them if not to sell on? Only three more Burns'suppers to go before its back to egg and chips!!!! Highlander.
Toby
Posts: 1017
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 4:49 pm
Location: New Forest

Re: sv brakes

Post by Toby »

Righto! boil, boil, boil those plates :evil: Am going to try Fortins coolant system degreaser, apparently its vicious stuff! The oil was getting in partly due to the scrolled bushes being installed on the wrong side by a previous owner!!! :shock:
if it's got wheels or chips - it'll cost you dear
Ian Grace
Site Admin
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Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 12:55 am
Location: USA

Re: sv brakes

Post by Ian Grace »

Or you could follow John Nagle's lead and pop them in the dishwasher! :D :D :D
Toby
Posts: 1017
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 4:49 pm
Location: New Forest

Re: sv brakes

Post by Toby »

My wife went away for a week once, on the day she left I washed some brushes in brush cleaner, then dishwashered them, then used a dishwasher cleaner in the dishwasher followed by normal use through the week. On her return she sniffed the kitchen and said "what have you been doing in here?" she then traced the smell to the dishwasher and after intense interrogation I confessed. NEVER AGAIN :shock: Especially in our new dishwasher! The Fortins lifted lots of oil and the boiling with washing liquid and dishwasher tab appears to have cleaned one pair really well and the other pair fairly well. Will give em a try out! On 2nd thought, maybe I should post them to John Nagle!!! :lol:
if it's got wheels or chips - it'll cost you dear
Simon
Posts: 275
Joined: Sat Dec 09, 2006 4:56 pm
Location: Surrey UK

Re: sv brakes

Post by Simon »

Toby,
I thought you were going to put modern oil seals in the axle tubes. As you know they work forwards and in reverse. The part number is R23 125 x 100 x 25. I used a blowlamp (in the garden) and then brake cleaner on my shoes, it worked well.
Highlander
Posts: 489
Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:52 am

Re: sv brakes

Post by Highlander »

Toby, Another old timers dodge re oil on anything. I had an old 9.20hp Humber, the 2nd owner, and I knew the lst owner very well. This Humber had an oil button on the wooden dashboard. This had leakek for 30 odd years and had soaked into the wood. An old french polisher told me to iron, with a very hot iron,the dashboard with heavy brown paper. The oild came to the surface and soaked into the paper. I did this for some time and all the oil came outa and I could re-frencvh polish the dash. Try it on a brake shoe and see if any oil is still there. (Wait till she is on holiday!!!) Highlander (only 2 Burns' suppers left!!)
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