Vintage Minor Register

Toby

If you are going to change your shock absorbers I would be interested in any Smiths you have for my 29 Minor as discussed at the Hatchgate. Will speak with you at Beaulieu on Saturday.

Here's my leaky block, aaaaaaaaaggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! Anyone know details of one of the block repair additives on the market, the sort you add to water, not radweld please!

Toby,
I had a very similar leak last year from a hairline (actually invisible) crack in the Semi Sports block. I cured it with R*****d - honest. It took a while, a number of long runs with the engine getting nice and hot and then one morning - nothing and nothing ever since. Also subsequently added a few coats of paint!
Chris

Thanks Chris, have been warned that R*#*#*d would block up a honeycomb rad, your crack may have rusted up! I was hoping mine would, as rust stopped PJs studs weeping (eventually), but I think this is prone to expansion and contraction. Having spent more on the car while it's been off the road than I paid for it in the first place and with funds dwindling I also don't want to break off the corner when the studs are due for retorquing at 500 miles! I do however want to safely drive it all the way to Suffolk for the very promising Summer Rally without any drama. (especially as I've sent my cheque off to Ian for the rally )

Hello Toby,

When i blew the aston engine in 1991 ,we had new pieces of cast iron glued into the side's of the engine.
This was regularly done by people who repair the enormous engines in ships (while on sea).
The repairs are still ok , so this gluelike stuf must be good
It's called Belzona.

Maybe there is somebody in the english shipping industry who has something similar or know's more

Succes Halbe

This may be the same company - Belzona UK - industrial polymeric repair products:

http://www.belzona.de/oppsuk.html

Jeff
1936morriseight

I also found this; Belzona 1111

http://www.belzona.com/products.aspx

Might be worth to check this out,
With the Aston the main reason was that there is no welding (heat ) involved, so no distortion

Belzona Polymerics Ltd.
Claro Road, Harrogate
HG1 4DS England
Telephone: +44 1423 567641
Facsimile: +44 1423 505967
belzona@belzona.co.uk

Halbe

Thanks guys. Have spoken to the rebuilder who is going to repair for me but have to get the car minus rad and bonnet to him! This will be 2 weeks before the summer rally and it will be truly heroic if the car gets to the rally (and back ). This work has taken so long in my limited garage space, can't wait to get to my new spacious garage, with inspection pit (liable to flooding)! I'm starting to decide that it's easier to completely rebuild than to repair! Never mind, when it's done it'll be 2 minors back on the road in 4 years, then just the 34 tourer to do

Toby, It may be worth a try on your crack. I have often used araldite glue with tisue paper - two or three layers and then paint over. This does work and will prove much cheaper than what you suggest. I had a cracked block on a Humber 9.20 (frost damage) and this treatment lasted all the time I owned the Humber (15 years). When painted noone notices. Highlander (and a Scotsman!!!!!)

Sounds like a good plan to me too. Actually, I'm surprised that Halbe, a Dutchman, didn't suggest putting a finger in the hole!

O dear,

I should have thought about that simple solution

From a dry and sunny Holland

Halbe

Here's the saloon, pre-polishing, ready for testing. All appears fine, except weep from somewhere over manifold-think it's a core plug rather than head gasket, oil shows no sign of water so will hope to make it to the rally. Back on the road at last.

Dam fine motor that!
Chris

Thanks! Will bring drip tray for recycling coolant, must sort out some decent shocks and springs that aren't flat (come winter!) Dripping block seems to have sealed itself

Hi Toby,

Good to see your car looking so nice!

See you friday

Halbe