JF 4238 1933 Minor Saloon

[Jpallis001]

Hi Ian – I did, despite the morning weather enjoy my trip to Prescott. I had never been to a ‘hill’ and had little understanding of what folks did on them. My wife, after her trip around the Cotswold antique trail, quickly compiled a list of the cars that she wanted – a Morris Minor Saloon was not on her list!

During the morning rain, I benefitted from a 1:1 Carburettor master class in the SU tent – they confirmed that the cork seals did need soaking in oil for 24 hours before fitting and suggested that rather than getting hung-up on float valve settings, it was best to remove the dash-pot + piston and see whether the fuel was rising above the jet. If it was the fuel level was too high and the float valve needed adjusting (fuel level should be approx 1/16th below top of Jet)

I was able to collected assorted bits and pieces from Ian Harris and was able to listen to Andrew Batey’s SV engine engine so that I had something to compare mine with.

Will not win any prizes as a cameraman, but have uploaded some video clips to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxdjV5YtHRY - Back to Prescott; thanks for all of your efforts Ian, a very successful and enjoyable day despite the UK weather.

It looks a bit like Kartik might not be the only one to have monsoon problems, we hit a mini-monsoon on the way home on the Sunday afternoon – but nothing to compare with Ronald’s experience! - it has also hammered down all day, today!

Does anyone know if the starter switch should be so close to the fabric couplings?

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[Ian Grace]

John,

It sounds like you had a very useful day.

Re your starter button, I think that the two terminals should be oriented laterally across the car, not fore and aft, which brings the aft terminal dangerously close to the coupling.

Ian

[Jpallis001]

The switch bracket has been welded up with the terminals in fore/aft position. I will wait until I get some floor boards in, and then re-make the bracket to create some clearance.

I need a bodywork expert; which way round does the front surround rubber go? - as I see it there are three possible ways that it might be fitted

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Front Surround1.jpg (79.66 KiB) Viewed 2275 times

[Jpallis001]

Managed to reunite the body and chassis this afternoon - looks a lot bigger; except when I fitted the front seat + attempted to sit in it, not too big! - will need to fit the front seat well towards the rear seat!

Together Again.jpg (146.77 KiB) Viewed 2264 times

[KartikeyaL]

John, its Looking Great !!

cheers
Kartik

[Ian Grace]

Looking lovely, John. Keep up the great work.

Ian

[Jpallis001]

Starting to think about sorting out a bonnet, The original bonnet (28 1/4"") has a poorly repaired hinge. I have found another bonnet (28 5/8") that does have a good central hinge. but needs the side hinges to be re-constructed.

Does anyone know what the correct bonnet length should be for a 1933 Minor SV Saloon?

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[Highlander]

Would it not be easier to bring the rad forward 3/8th of an inch? Who would know? Highlander.

[Jpallis001]

Morning Alistair - when I found the second bonnet, I did not realise that it was 'different' than the one that came with the car. I laid it on to the car and began to adjust the Radiator to fit the bonnet. Not really sure why, but I decided to measure it and discovered the 3/8" difference. From the discussion on the PWM Forum it looks like the 'new' radiator might have come from a 1934 Minor. http://www.prewarminorforum.com/minor-b ... t1057.html

There is certainly enough adjustment, via the adjusting rods, to move the top of the Rad forward. I will need to check whether the slots in the Front chassis cross member will allow the bottom of the Rad to be moved forward enough.

[Highlander]

I do not know if you are a pannel beater but I would think cutting the bonnet top x 2 and the two sides and the hinges would be a lot harder than opening out the two holes on the chassis. I would try it and if you dont like the result nothing has been lost. On our type of cars the bonnet must fit well or it looks dreadful. Aye, Alister (Highlander)

[Jpallis001]

Before I remove the radiator; does anyone have a photo that shows the 'shape' of the glass-fibre panels that cover the Dumb-irons and underneath the radiator (1933 SV). I have the fibre-glass pieces that cover the top + sides of the dumb-irons. I will be able to reconstruct these but I do not have the piece that goes underneath the radiator. It looks like this piece is attached to the two dumb-iron covers?

[Ian Grace]

John, here's the '33/'34 front valence - different to all earlier ones to accommodate the lower radiator shell of the '33/'34 cars. Plus it is louvred - unlike the earlier ones. I actually need one myself for the McEvoy - so maybe we could have some made? I think fibreglass ones are available, but I would prefer steel myself. We would also need to borrow a good pattern from someone. Any offers out there? And then select a suitable company to make them up - someone like the Cooke Group or Vintage Radiators?

[Jpallis001]

Now that looks a lot more complicated than I thought it was going to be. The 'pieces' that I am left with suggest a much simpler component, unless they are not original? I am not planning on spending much to sort these out, will probably use these pieces + some fibre glass. Not sure how I will make the louvres.

Dumb Iron Covers.jpg (78.17 KiB) Viewed 2110 times

[Ian Grace]

Nothing in your photo looks faintly original - even if they were steel! The simplest thing to do is make a flat, rectangular panel and screw it over the dumbirons, with a hole to take the starting handle. It will get you on the road and cost you nothing - two most worthy goals!

[Jpallis001]

While I am on 'light duties' I might have a think about how I might fabricate a steel version, or a composite steel/fibre glass version of this panel. Does anyone else have photos that might help me? what is the height/depth of the panel with the louvres on? what are the lengths of the lourves?

I think I must be missing a starting handle support bracket that must bolt onto the front cros member - anyone got a photo of one?