Vintage Minor Register

Well, I used a standard bearing (of the same type - deep groove ball bearings) from SKF, permanent lubricated and sealed at both sides. If you like I can provide SKF number.
/Thomas

Hi everyone,
What do you think of using sealed bearings in the wheel hub? If that will work (and I can´t see why not) you don´t need other kinds of seals. And you can skip the grease...
/Thomas

And I am very interested in brake parts such as bushings, cams, bolts (opposite cam), springs (for brake shoes), brake shoes.
A wiper equipment, shock absorbers and the switch (for flashers I suppose) are also on my shopping list.
/Thomas

After cleaning and painting right front backplate and some other brake parts I got problem; the king pin locking bolt just refused to loose. The nut was no problem but the locking bold itself resisted all my efforts and known engineering tricks - except heating to avoid material stress. So I decided...

Than you all!
I can´t live without you
Serious; I´m very grateful for all information.

And Philip! I certainly hope that you find the pedals and, if so, please send me a private message for terms and shipping (I´m living i Sweden so I can´t just drop by).
/Thomas

Interesting! It can´t hardly be the oil itself but more likely the effect higher temperature has on the mechanical parts. But you need more information. For example is it possible to change gear when standing still/engine not running, standing still/engine idling, can you hear (and/or feel) the &quo...

What a nice car! Congratulations!

/Thomas

Ian,
It's possible but I strongly recommend that you talk to a professional workshop with experience of that kind of work. I know there is special welding electrode for leaf steel, for example ESAB OK 68.81.
/Thomas

The brake (I got the spelling right now :lol: ) and clutch pedals in my SV are replaced to a set of more modern and "hanging" pedals :cry: . Besides it's totally wrong, only a monkey would manage to operate them. So I have to do something! One idea (because it seems very difficult to find ...

By the way - does anyone have a tips to a link with pictures of the breaking system? I have looked around this forum whiteout success.
/Thomas

I just ordered a Bowden conversion kit, set of king pins (not SV), break shoes (= a set for one axle), castor angle wedges and some other parts to the break system. While waiting for this I started to dismantle the wheel hubs, bearings and back plates to further examination. I will try to find suita...

After a short inspection of the breaks and hubs I made this notes: http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/rear-of-side-hubback-plate.jpg http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/near-side-rear-hub-an-backplate.jpg http://vintagemorris.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/near-side-front-hub...

The little Morris was manufactured in may 1931as a 100£ Two-seater roadster. The serial number is SV2612 and engine number 2902A. I know nothing about the history until 1952 when it was imported to Denmark. In Denmark it got number BE 21-754 and after four different owners it was imported to Sweden ...

Thank you all! Since I´m not strictly committed to originality I think it´s a good idea to convert my front brakes to Bowden cables. If I got it right (pleas correct me if I´m wrong) I then don´t need SV-pully type of king pins. I also found that Ian Harris has Bowden conversion in stock from time t...

Philip
Yes, it´s a solution I have in mind. Do you use some kind of "balance bar" to balance the break "power" between the wheels? Do you still use the SV-type king pins (to obtain some construction for the cable housing)?
Thomas